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The Mexicanist 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bill Schmausser and Britt Anderson, 2000
Page Views: 911
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jun 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

On the wall between Guide's Route and Jaws are five bolted routes. This route is the second from the right. It is a little more featured than the 5.8 on the wall, and it doesn't have the runout. A couple of strenuous moves lead to the first bolt not far off the ground. Great climbing using side pulls and ledges between the 2nd and 4th bolts. This route felt a lot more ballancy and reachy than Unknown 1. Rap with a one rope (50m ok), or traverse to the next set of anchors and set a top rope.


Protection 

Five quickdraws and anchors.



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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 19, 2003

Excellent granite climb in moderate range. Grab bucket at start and smear up feet which is fun. Two short sections of 5.9 above are interesting friction/balance problems. At the crux my partner did the moves differently than me. This climb is three stars. All the sport routes on this wall are three stars.

By Larry Shaw
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very balancy moves, but fun.

By Ryan Carlino
May 9, 2005

This is the third-from-the-right bolted route in the gully from Schooldaze up to Guides Route. It begins as far left from the first 2 (lowest) routes as you can go before you hit the rock gully. The first bolt is right above the initial jug. You can even stem the wall behind you at this point.

The route follows 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering links. This is the second anchor station from the right (the first 2 routes share the first anchors). You could scramble between these two as they're only 15' apart. The next anchors to the left are further away and higher up. The first 2 bolts head straight up. Then the route moves left for 2 bolts and then back right for the last one.

Note: between this route and the Unknown 5.8 is an unused bolt just before the anchors. Maybe it's for transitioning between the anchors?

By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 18, 2006

The name of this route is "The Mexicanist". 5.10a. Put up by Britt Anderson & me in 2000