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A giant plug of Granite rock adjacent to Cloud Peak. The Merlon is the 1300 foot tall tooth-like formation just North of the saddle separating Bomber Mountain and Cloud Peak.
From Highway 16 travel North on West Ten Sleep Lake Road (Forest Road #27) to West Ten Sleep Lake. Hike North on Misty Moon Trail (#63) 4 miles to Misty Moon Lake. Continue on the trail to Paint Rock Creek drainage, which is followed eastward to the saddle between the Merlon and Bomber Mountain. Expect a 5 to 7 hour hike in good weather.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Merlon:
Super Fortress 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1300'
Featured Route For The Merlon
Super Fortress 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a WY : Cloud Peak Wilderness Area : The Merlon
Two 3rd/4th class pitches are followed by a 5.4, a 5.7 and a 5.10 corner/face pitch. The upper 7 pitches are all 5.11, with bolts protecting many of the cruxes. The first and last 5.11 pitches are the hardest at 5.11+. Double bolt anchors are available at every belay ledge. Refer to the attached photo for route topo, picture and description....[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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