The Mercy Seat 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a/b [details] |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard, 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Eddie Avallone on Apr 1, 2008 |
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Doug Fischer climbing The Mercy Seat
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Description Climb Apollo past the second bolt; bear left to blocky pinches below roof. Climb left bolt line past jugs to a hard move to get established in a dihedral. Make a cruxy clip to a big move up and left to a jug.
Race through apollo-esque climbing to the "mercy seat" in the bottom of the big dihedral 1 bolt from the finish. Here it is, self-explanatory throwing up the dihedral required. Very fun!
Good route, a bit harder than Apollo, but much easier than the Pod.
Location Climb Apollo to 2nd bolt and bear left.
Protection Fixed chains! 9 in all.
| Comments on The Mercy Seat |
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By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
Jun 3, 2009
rating: 5.13b
| The crux up top is so fun, it's almost stupid. Definitely a significant step up from apollo. I'd say around 12c to a steep rest, to a V4/5, though low percentage. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 31, 2009
rating: 5.13a/b
| Significantly fewer moves than Apollo Reed but with 2 sections that are harder than anything on Apollo in each corner. |
By camhead
May 23, 2012
| Getting into the lower corner is one of the most awkward moves I've ever done on a sport route: crimp-gastoning tiny pebbles and thrutching up with feet way below.
The final crux is just plain fun. |
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