Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Coliseum
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apollo Reed S 
BC S 
Good, the Bad, and The Boltless (High Plains Drifter variation), The T 
Mercy Seat, The S 
Obitchuary S 
Pod S 
Reckless Abandon S 
Surfer Rosa S 
Tobacco Road S 

The Mercy Seat 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard, 1992
Page Views: 2,836
Submitted By: Eddie Avallone on Apr 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Doug Fischer climbing The Mercy Seat

Description 

Climb Apollo past the second bolt; bear left to blocky pinches below roof. Climb left bolt line past jugs to a hard move to get established in a dihedral. Make a cruxy clip to a big move up and left to a jug.
Race through apollo-esque climbing to the "mercy seat" in the bottom of the big dihedral 1 bolt from the finish. Here it is, self-explanatory throwing up the dihedral required. Very fun!
Good route, a bit harder than Apollo, but much easier than the Pod.

Location 

Climb Apollo to 2nd bolt and bear left.

Protection 

Fixed chains! 9 in all.


Comments on The Mercy Seat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
Jun 3, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

The crux up top is so fun, it's almost stupid. Definitely a significant step up from apollo. I'd say around 12c to a steep rest, to a V4/5, though low percentage.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 31, 2009
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Significantly fewer moves than Apollo Reed but with 2 sections that are harder than anything on Apollo in each corner.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
May 23, 2012

Getting into the lower corner is one of the most awkward moves I've ever done on a sport route: crimp-gastoning tiny pebbles and thrutching up with feet way below.

The final crux is just plain fun.