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 ADVANCED
The Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Army Route, The T 
Balance S 
Cheyenne S 
Chivalry S 
Corrugation Corner S 
Dragnet S 
Full Monty S 
Kendlee S 
Men Arete, The S 
Right-Facing Corner T 
Shitter, The S 
Tiger Snap? S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Men Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Carrie Lin & Bob Robertson
Page Views: 2,636
Submitted By: Steve Marr on May 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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BETA PHOTO: Pic shows approximate route of Men Arete. It's jus...

Description 

Wartime is the bolted route immediately left of The Army Route. Locate the first bolt with the homemade red angle hanger just above a horizontal outcrop - it's a ways off the deck, but the climbing is easy. Continue past a cold shut and two more bolts to lower angle terrain. The route begins to steepen again at the fifth bolt (missing hanger - either sling it with a stopper or climb past it). There is also an ancient ring piton just to the left of the bolt - it's possible to clip it, but it probably wouldn't hold much of a fall. Continue past two more bolts to the anchors (crux). It is a good climb on solid rock.

Rappel with a single rope (50m would work).

Protection 

7 bolts to cold shut anchors.


Photos of The Men Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing past the 2d bolt.
Climbing past the 2d bolt.
Steve Marr rapping off Wartime.
Steve Marr rapping off Wartime.
Laura leading Men Arete.
Laura leading Men Arete.

Comments on The Men Arete Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 10, 2010
By Jordan Kidd
Jul 26, 2002

Someone has installed a new hanger at the fifth bolt. A 50 meter rope will just barely reach for lowering and TR.
By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 5, 2002

This route is the same as Menarete. Wartime is the name given in the Rock and Ice number 95 Article, but Menarete is also a commonly used name.
By Sean O'Dell
Dec 13, 2002

Perhaps this is a stupid question...but if Menarete and Wartime are the same route, why is one listed as 5.8 and one at 5.9+? Just curious :-)
By Adam Hicks`
May 12, 2003

Not only is their a confusing paradox amongst the information, but there is yet an undecided grade for the climb. I'm going out on a limb, here, but I wouldn't call this climb any harder than 5.8.
By Ben Glover
Jun 4, 2003

I really should wait until I get on the route again (which was supposed to be today, rain). However I want to say that the rating could reflect different variations at the crux. Particularly that the right side of the bolt line is a bit steeper and with less features than the left side (which features a conveniently placed bush, though its debateable if that's on-route for those ticking low-mid grade sport routes. sadly, like me).
By Adam Hicks`
Jul 11, 2003

I'm of the school of thought that says you find a weakness and climb it. If your priority for the weakness is speed, then go for what looks quick. If you're priority be aesthetic movement, then look for that. In lieu of this, when climbing this line of bolts as your pro while moving over the weakness that is the face and arete feature of this rock, I say you use what holds are available to you. That means that there is no 'off' as long as you are within reach of the bolts. That also means that the easiest way up the climb while using the bolts as pro is the way that should receive the grade.
By Carrie
Sep 14, 2003

I like this line.
By Carrie
Sep 14, 2003

After I got the first ascent of this sport climb, we retro'ed it (adding two bolts-the last bolt is one of them; sometimes I can still skip the last bolt (on this sport climb. The real name is The Men Arete; just because a naive editor renames my climb does not mean that the naive name gets heald on another humans vanity!!!! Please....Wartime is an insult. Let's get it straight.... Men Arete, 5.9+. I was the person who drew a topo for these sport climbs we have bolted; &, to get a false label is insulting. Men Arete, 5.9+, the reason the topo says 5.8 is because of arrogance....
By Carrie
Sep 14, 2003

A Respectable Trad-Climber Said To Me, This Is The Very Best 5.9 In This Valley!
By Adam Hicks`
Nov 3, 2003

I can't possibly agree that this is 5.9+. 5.9- at the hardest.
By Larry Shaw
Jun 13, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun route that is well bolted (except the funky homemade hangers). Although not much harder than 5.8, it was harder than Balance, 5.8, 30m to the right.
By jmeizis
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I would call it solid 5.9-. It's harder than Balance but easier than some of the 5.9s in the Garden such as Crescent Corner or Credibility Gap. Albeit it's different stone and a different style. I found it only a little bit easier than Corrugation Corner which I climbed after Menarete as well as after onsighting Dragnet, Full Monty, and Cheyenne.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 10, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route. Well-placed 1st bolt to protect the first move over the small lip. Enjoyed the way the route allows you to climb up the arete. Route difficulty depends greatly on how you get to the last bolt and anchors. If you stay left and use the crack, it's very moderate. If you stay right at the top and face climb over the bulge, it's much harder.