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Breakers
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The Medusa  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Brink, P. McGrane, 1988
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Kevin Landolt on Sep 26, 2010

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Excellent start on quartzite groove.

Description 

The Medusa is a bold and aesthetic line line up the beautiful slab on the eastern end of the Breakers. The route is immediately left of an obvious roof-crack called Fisticuffs (10c). Props to J. Brink and P. McGrane, this route is a gem and a proud send.

Bouldery moves over an initial bulge gain the first bolt (an old rusty hunk of metal). Enjoy excellent climbing up quartzite, passing two more bolts. The crux comes shortly after the third bolt and involves thin friction moves to gain a sloping horizontal crack. Mantel onto the face above and choose your poison - the obvious line leading directly up on thin holds left of the watermark (possible death or serious injury inducing fall potential here on sold 5.9+ terrain) or make some thin face moves out right (like I did) to gain the slightly easier, though still very runout slab that hugs the right side of the watermark.Protection presents itself in horizontal cracks above. Cruise up the rest of the slab on easier terrain - but don't fall.

Rap to the ground from a tree-anchor above - 2 ropes required.

Location 

Quartzite groove at the far NE end of the Breakers.

Protection 

Draws, balls, and TCUs.


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By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Oct 13, 2010

Go do this route!