The Mean Lean 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Brady Libby 2006 |
| Submitted By: | M Sprague on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Description This route may never have received a second ascent, since it is hidden away, but is on a very cool feature, a thin curving flake forming a shallow corner that runs right up along the edge of an overhang. It is high above and a little to the right of the Who Done It crack and is approached by first doing Electric Socks and then rapping off towards the right to find a two bolt anchor at it's base. Jam and undercling your way out the exposed overhanging flake.
Location High and right of the finish of Electric Socks. Note - The description was correct, but the route was misplaced a few hundred feet in the latest guidebook drawing.
Get down with two raps off the bolted anchors, being especially careful not to knock stuff down while crossing the choss down low or when pulling the rope. (the route itself is on excellent rock)
Protection Bolts
| Comments on The Mean Lean |
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 25, 2012
| Just took my first attempt on it today... i learned many things i should share with others that might be interested in this awesome but obscure line...
-it felt hard in the grade for me but it requires lots of undercling strength and endurance and underclings are a weakness for me... the balance and core tension required are intense... the foot smears are smooth in many places and have a thin film of lichen... those smears are only inches above 80 feet of air as the roof creates exposure that makes jolt feel secure :)
-i brushed out some of the dirty holds and a foot hold broke of toward the end so its a bit cleaner now than it was...
-in an attempt to make it easy on my belayer i tried to do it in one long pitch... i started leading on gear to the right of Who Done It and though i made it to the anchor it was quite crappy climbing (loose dirty etc.) and pretty sketchy... once up there i felt like i wanted my belayer right there to communicate better and to reduce rope stretch in a fall... what i learned was to just do it the way it is described here and dont try to beat the system...
-it is a stellar peice of rock, i will be back for more but i will bring my "A game"... |
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