|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Brady Libby 2006|
|Submitted By:||M Sprague on Jan 18, 2012|
|Comments on The Mean Lean||Add Comment|
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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 25, 2012
Just took my first attempt on it today... i learned many things i should share with others that might be interested in this awesome but obscure line...
-it felt hard in the grade for me but it requires lots of undercling strength and endurance and underclings are a weakness for me... the balance and core tension required are intense... the foot smears are smooth in many places and have a thin film of lichen... those smears are only inches above 80 feet of air as the roof creates exposure that makes jolt feel secure :)
-i brushed out some of the dirty holds and a foot hold broke of toward the end so its a bit cleaner now than it was...
-in an attempt to make it easy on my belayer i tried to do it in one long pitch... i started leading on gear to the right of Who Done It and though i made it to the anchor it was quite crappy climbing (loose dirty etc.) and pretty sketchy... once up there i felt like i wanted my belayer right there to communicate better and to reduce rope stretch in a fall... what i learned was to just do it the way it is described here and dont try to beat the system...
-it is a stellar peice of rock, i will be back for more but i will bring my "A game"...