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Elevation: 2,209 ft
GPS: 48.57919, -120.36653
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,160 total · 349/month
Shared By: Zachary Winters on Jul 26, 2015 · Updates
Admins: applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters
Warning Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Temporary closure May 5&6 2019 (Sunday, Monday) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This cragging area has about 60 routes from 5.6 to 5.11. It consists of several sub-areas, and the routes are mostly closely bolted sport lines with a couple trad lines. All have bolted anchors.

Climbing here is great for avoiding crowds at Fun Rock and Prime Rib, and is best for shoulder season climbing or summer days that aren't too hot.

A guidebook supplement with route specifics, photos, and grades can be obtained from the good folks at the Goat's Beard in Mazama.

The sub-areas, from left to right, are The Mezzanine, Perfecto Pillar, Deja Vu, The Spearhead, and Crackstar Lounge. Further down and to the right are Doorstep and Sweet Spot. The approach trail brings one up below the right side of the crag near Spearhead and Crackstar Lounge.

Getting There Suggest change

After stuffing down some pastries at the Mazama Store and grabbing your beta at the Goat's Beard, head SE from the 3-way intersection for 5 min (1.9 miles), turn left on Forest Service road #52, and in a few hundred feet park at the Goat Creek Snopark.

The trail takes off from the S side of the parking area. Approach time is about 10 minutes.

Appreciate the new trail that was recently built by local climbers and the Forest Service by staying on the trail and not cutting switchbacks please.

Have fun!

40 Total Climbs

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Location: The Matrix Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Matrix

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Route C
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
B
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Route D
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
B
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Route G
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
A
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
C
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
D
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
C
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Route B
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Route F
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
Route K Split line
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
A. Tanner
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 20
Controlled Burn
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Climate First
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Route C Sweet Spot
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
B Crackstar Lounge
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Route D Sweet Spot
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
B Spearhead Base
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Route G Sweet Spot
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
A Spearhead Left Side
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
C Spearhead Left Side
 18
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
D Spearhead Left Side
 10
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
C Deja Vu
 13
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Route B Sweet Spot
 24
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Route F Sweet Spot
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Route K Split line Sweet Spot
 23
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
A. Tanner Deja Vu
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Controlled Burn Deja Vu
 20
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Climate First Spearhead Left Side
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Matrix »

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