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Rogers Rock
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The Matrix 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 660'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: April 7, 2006 Jim Gilman, Carl Harrison
Page Views: 2,685
Submitted By: Eli Kramer on Sep 14, 2009

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By Eli Kramer
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Sep 14, 2009

A good slab route in a perfect setting. Good friction on featured rock.

Start: 25 feet left of Little Finger on the leftmost seem.

Pro: Bolt protected, Adirondack style, a bit run out. PG

1) Go up the left seem and through the overlap onto the face and the first bolt. Climb the sustained slab to a fixed anchor.

2) (crux) Stem above the belay and then up over a bulge then continue on dimpled rock to the second belay at a good stance.

3) Up the slab then easier climbing up and right to a right facing corner and a ledge with anchors.

4) Move right past the corner then up to an overhang with a left facing corner above. Climb the corner to a tree ledge, then above to the exit overhang. Positive holds up right to anchor.
By Brad Osborn
Mar 19, 2013

I have the most recent edition of the guidebook, and, according to the "topo" maps the author drew for this route, the first pitch (180ft.) only has 4 bolts. I'm no mathematician, but that is more than "a little run-out."

Can someone explain how you climb this, entirely sport (which is what everyone keeps telling me), without risking 80 ft. falls? (distance between bolts would be, on average, 45 ft.)

I'm planning a trip up there, and just want to be as prepared as possible.

Also, does anyone have any experience throwing down a double-70 for the rappel? Is there a high snag factor, or should it throw clean down to the anchors?

-B
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Mar 19, 2013

Brad: P1 of the Matrix goes up a gully for a good distance before reaching technical rock. After that, the bolts are pretty well positioned where the climbing is hard, but there are significant runouts at a lesser grade. I doubt there's a place where one could fall 80'; more likely a 40' fall in places. Rogers Rock is a slab, so taking a long fall is more of a tumbling affair rather than a free-fall. This type of climbing isn't "sport" climbing, but it is entirely protected by bolts. By the standards of the climbing here established over 40 years, this route is well protected :-)

Regarding rappelling this route with 70m ropes (which I've done) -- the extra rope isn't necessary, as the route is designed for 60m ropes. All that means is there will be some extra sorting to do. I doubt it's possible to throw the rope down the slab cleanly to the next anchor, as it's simply too low angle.
By Brad Osborn
Mar 25, 2013

Thanks, Jim, for your (continued) help as I'm planning this, my first multi-pitch climb. I love the book, by the way!

1) What would you suggest in terms of rope management for getting a party of 2 down?

a) lowering my first to the anchor, then rapping down two ropes, keeping the slack of the single rope I have with me (the other is now, of course, at the anchor with the first) in a rope bag as I go down

b) both of us lowering off of two ropes separately, the first of us taking the slack of TWO ropes in a rope back as I go down.

2) would you invest in any trad gear to protect the route further? If so, which pieces and where should they be placed?

Thanks so much,
Brad
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Mar 25, 2013

Check the book, but probably rappel with 2 ropes. I don't recall any opportunity for other gear.
By Rob Roy Ramey
Jul 26, 2013

Many of the climbs on Roger Rock tend to be more difficult and have much longer runouts than the ratings suggest.