|Type:||Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||FA Arno Ilgner, FFA Arno Ilgner, Brad Carter|
|Submitted By:||chummer on Jan 14, 2008|
|Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Matrix||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Nov 3, 2009
|This beast is hard! The first pitch is a straight kick in the nuts, with sustained 11c climbing up to a very, very hard crux (V5-6ish). Be prepared to be humbled!|
Feb 19, 2010
|I agree about the first pitch, a rude wake up call, indeed. A little chossy in spots, like most of Whitesides, but a very nice route. The moves off the Whitesides hotel are quite memorable.|
From: Menlo Park, CA
Oct 8, 2010
Gear: blue TCU, #.75 - #2 camalots (a #3 friend would be slightly better than a #2 camalot if you have it), #8 - #11 stoppers, and several long slings. #3 camalot optional and only used on P1.
Note: all belays except for p5 have 2 bolt ring anchors so bailing is easy with one rope.
P1: (5.12c) Climb cool crystal covered slab to bulge. Reach up high to clip bolt (protected by optional #3 camalot), then step back down and climb up through the bulge 5 feet left of the bolt. Continue up the face with one very hard move to anchor (80 feet)
P2: (5.11b) climb up to a bolt then traverse right and climb an incredibly good face to anchor. (90 feet)
P3: (5.11d) Climb steep rock above the belay until the angle lessens. A smeary boulder problem crux bars the way to the anchor. (80 feet) P4: (5.10b) Climb past bolts and some gear to anchor on ledge (90 feet)
P5: (5.11a) Climb up blocky right facing corner, get tricky pro at the top, then climb out the steep roof past 2 bolts into the oracle hole. Continue up and left past a bolt and up to a final directional bolt right before the ledge. Belay from anchor on the right end of the ledge. (80 feet)
P6: (5.11a PG13) climb the face right of the whitesides hotel up and left past bolts and possibly a slung horn to a horizontal crack under a roof. Traverse left and climb up past a horn and bolts to an anchor
P7: (5.11c PG13) Climb up and left past a bolt and some 5.10 moves a bit above a bolt then continue up and right on 5.7 ramp to 5.11c bulge that has a kind of sketchy fall potential onto slabby rock if you blow it after standing up a little.
P8: (5.8) climb the crack to trees, then traverse right 40 feet to two bolt anchor
P9: bushwhack straight in front of anchor then do a boulder problem to gain an easy slab which leads to the top.