A great journey up one of the biggest cliffs in the East. Steep and exposed climbing up high that's runout but well protected at the cruxes. Classic Whitesides climbing that's not to scary compared to some of the others nearby.
Just right of the Blarney Stone and left of The Warriors Way. Starts on a thin slab with bolts. Climbs straight up to the Whitesides Hotel
A bit of everything. Lots of long slings
Nov 3, 2009
This beast is hard! The first pitch is a straight kick in the nuts, with sustained 11c climbing up to a very, very hard crux (V5-6ish). Be prepared to be humbled!
Feb 19, 2010
I agree about the first pitch, a rude wake up call, indeed. A little chossy in spots, like most of Whitesides, but a very nice route. The moves off the Whitesides hotel are quite memorable.
From: Menlo Park, CA
Oct 8, 2010
Gear: blue TCU, #.75 - #2 camalots (a #3 friend would be slightly better than a #2 camalot if you have it), #8 - #11 stoppers, and several long slings. #3 camalot optional and only used on P1.
Note: all belays except for p5 have 2 bolt ring anchors so bailing is easy with one rope.
P1: (5.12c) Climb cool crystal covered slab to bulge. Reach up high to clip bolt (protected by optional #3 camalot), then step back down and climb up through the bulge 5 feet left of the bolt. Continue up the face with one very hard move to anchor (80 feet)
P2: (5.11b) climb up to a bolt then traverse right and climb an incredibly good face to anchor. (90 feet)
P3: (5.11d) Climb steep rock above the belay until the angle lessens. A smeary boulder problem crux bars the way to the anchor. (80 feet) P4: (5.10b) Climb past bolts and some gear to anchor on ledge (90 feet)
P5: (5.11a) Climb up blocky right facing corner, get tricky pro at the top, then climb out the steep roof past 2 bolts into the oracle hole. Continue up and left past a bolt and up to a final directional bolt right before the ledge. Belay from anchor on the right end of the ledge. (80 feet)
P6: (5.11a PG13) climb the face right of the whitesides hotel up and left past bolts and possibly a slung horn to a horizontal crack under a roof. Traverse left and climb up past a horn and bolts to an anchor
P7: (5.11c PG13) Climb up and left past a bolt and some 5.10 moves a bit above a bolt then continue up and right on 5.7 ramp to 5.11c bulge that has a kind of sketchy fall potential onto slabby rock if you blow it after standing up a little.
P8: (5.8) climb the crack to trees, then traverse right 40 feet to two bolt anchor
P9: bushwhack straight in front of anchor then do a boulder problem to gain an easy slab which leads to the top.