The Match-Up  5.12

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  RM Wright, 2008 New Route:  Yes Season:  Typical for Mary's Bust Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Sep 28, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The Match-Up runs up the middle of the west face of The Sugar Cube. For the record, TMU is still a red point project for me (as of September 2009), although it may have seen a red point burn earlier this year (Bernard Gillett?). I was able to free most of it in late September after being unable to even get back for a try throughout most of the last year. The climbing on TMU is intricate and very powerful, at least for me. Start in a wide, rounded groove with pathetically poor feet and power up to the first of a series of rounded lay-away holds inside the groove. The definitive crux comes in getting to and past the first clip. Continue with awkward, torgue-intensive body tension moves. The third clip can be made before reaching a deep hand jam. From the hand jam on through standing above clip seven, the route comes in at 5.12a. It is possible to move out left after the fifth clip for a complete rest, but this sets up a difficult traverse with the sixth clip at your waist (pretty cozy). From the traverse to standing above clip seven entails more powerful climbing with more intricate footwork and body position. The final three clips and the anchor are shared by all three routes with the remaining climbing not harder than 5.9.

I personally thought that TMU was burly, complex, bullet proof, technical, and excellent. I'm posting it now while it is still a project (but presently a very close project) because rumor has it that it has already seen a red point run. At this point, I'm completely easy about someone else climbing it. It's coming together quickly now, and the climbing invokes a lot of the things I learned over the last year training with Dave Wahl and his posse of boulderers. Hard but loads of fun.

Location 

Middle of three routes presently on The Sugar Cube.

Protection 

Quick draws only and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. Stick clip at least the first bolt, possibly even the second (!!!).