The Masterbator's Edge
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Chris Weidner 2/16/08 TR: Matt Samet 2/9/08 |
Page Views: | 2,630 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Mar 15, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The Masterbator's Edge (credit for the name goes to Mr. Samet) climbs the overhanging arete immediately right of Funeral March. Scramble to the base of Funeral March and launch up the arete. A balancy start with very poor protection yields to a less difficult but still exciting finish. The rock at the crux is less than perfect, but the classic line and thrilling moves deserve 3 stars. I toproped the route several times before leading it, because a fall at the crux would reap severe consequences.
Protection
A handful of tiny RPs and steel nuts can be wiggled in at the start. A #000 Black Diamond C3 can be placed below the crux but it will almost certainly rip (or break the rock) if you fall. For the upper arete it's nice to have a #2 TCU, a #0.75 Camalot, and 2 #2 Camalots. Also, a cordelette around a flake and #3 Camalot are useful as directionals for toproping, with the main anchor being the 2 bolts above Hand Crack.
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