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BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo
Sit start on the steep wall, work your way out the the arete, slap up, and top out. Stand start goes at V4.
Past the parking lot, just past the narrowest part of the notch on your way to stow. There is a place to park right next to this boulder, but if you are going to work on problems there, you might not want to park your car there.
Sticking the lip on 'Masochist' (v6) -- Smuggler's...
|Comments on The Masochist
|By Christian Prellwitz|
May 28, 2012
I was talking to Bill Patton about this problem the other day and he told me a couple interesting things. First, this problem was originally done from a stand start by a very tall local (the original guidebook author) reaching the high left hand sidepull from the ground! Bill then started working on the sit start (and was ridiculed for it since sit starts were unheard of at the time) since he could not reach the holds of the stand start. He says that the SDS begins with the left hand on the low crimper sidepull on the arete and right hand on a vertical sidepull. Pull off the ground and bump the right hand to the obvious good crimp. Sort out the feet and figure out a way to get to the good sidepull up high. From there, the problem stays tricky but the hard part is over.
Anyhow just wanted to give some insight into the sit start and stand start because the current guidebook doesn't make the starting holds of each very clear. If anyone has anything more to add, let me know!
|By colin rickert|
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 20, 2012
Couple things worth mentioning:
1. The sit start is no longer a "sit" start as the ground has eroded significantly (unless your really tall).
2. Most people think the Masochist is quite hard for V6 - though I concur its probably only a 6+ or 7-
3. Great line that veers just to the right of the Masochist (not the V4) called the Sadomasochist and is also V6/7. This line starts the same as "The Masochist" but uses an obvious left hand sidepull just a few inches from the arete itself and some high feet to launch up and right to the lip (i.e. you stay right of the arete instead of left). Some people like this variation better (I do) as it is less painful crimping (though requires more core strength and dynamic power).