The Marble Man
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 30'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Lloyd|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||winter is best but year around|
|Page Views: ||336|
|Submitted By: ||mlloyd on May 24, 2013|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Another view of FFF aka The Marble Man. Note my ro...
Climb the left arete just left of Stonewall. The crux is up high just before the chains. The route looks easier than it is and is on impeccable stone. If it wasn't so short, it would be an ultra classic.
This climb was scouted by Bjorn and is listed in MP as the ??, 5.12-.
It is on the left side of the perfect face....
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Original project posting
Eds. to consolidate the project and the FFA, we'll move the original project posting here:
Full Fathom Five (project)
5.12- V3-4 X
Type: Boulder, 30 feet
Submitted By: Bjorn on May 18, 2010
Full Fathom Five, as I've been calling it in my own head so far, is without a doubt the grand prize of Postcolonial Crag. During early- and late-day light the two faces forming the arete will be accentuated with vivid contrast. I have climbed to about halfway. There are hard moves all over it. Since this route is a project as yet, the grade posted here is a projection based on what I've climbed and visual inspection of above.
At the left end of the crag is an obvious arete, laser-cut by Clear Creek standards, uninterrupted, unswerving from bottom to top.
The landing is a bit more friendly under this one. Still a few rocks that could cause serious injury if coming down from 30 feet. There are features enough above this route to build a top rope anchor.
Full Fathom Five. Shakespearean for '30 feet.'
|Comments on The Marble Man
From: Near Joshua Tree
May 18, 2010
This project is my primary reason for having mentioned style and ethics in my submission of Postcolonial Crag. I have been trying moves on this arete ground up. I've done this because I know I would be prouder of the route if I put it up in this style than if I headpoint it. I'm rather sure that if I had been trying moves with the impunity of a top rope, I may well have sent it by now. And even though I would be happiest to see someone else send it through ground up effort, I do not object to someone else using a top rope. I want this project to see an ascent by someone who deserves it. The only thing I want to avoid at all costs is that this amazing clean arete gets turned into another goddamn sport route. I don't want any bolts at Postcolonial, but protection bolts down the spine of this arete would be a travesty, and I apologize for feeling I have to spell this out to people who may well be like-minded. But we know there are plenty of people around here who will bolt anything.
From: Golden, Colorado
May 22, 2010
I don't think you have to worry here, son. I don't know many bolters that would take the time to hike up there to bolt a 25 foot route.... On the other hand, I would like to go check this out with ya before you take off to the Right Coast! PM me or something, let's do it before the snakes come out!
From: Near Joshua Tree
May 27, 2010
My apologies, amigo. I am already out in the Boston area. The FFF arete has good top rope anchor possibilities up top, provided you bring LLLOOOONNGGGG runners to equalize at the lip. And don't trip over your shit while building that anchor. It's a long way down and most of the cliff top is a bit gravelly. That said, spread the word. I posted this project because I think it will be a wonderful climb, and I'd love to see someone do it in good style.
May 12, 2013
I tried this yesterday, and I think it's much harder than 12-. The moves on the first half are fun and pretty chill once you figure them out, the second half is a totally different story. There is a lot of lichen on the left side of the arÍte, so I rapped down it to brush it off and some of the holds I was able to pull off with my hand. I'm going to go back and give it a solid effort today. Maybe 12+ maybe harder. Either way, I think the ground up ascent is very unlikely. In fact, it's almost a shame to keep the route in this style as it will never get climbed, but hey ... I love scare fests.
Jun 26, 2013
" I love scare fests."
Evidently not TOO much, since you ended up bolting this thing after all.
Oct 6, 2013
I wanted to do the line sans bolts, but after top rope rehearsal (for the head-point), a method I have used to free solo up to 5.12d/13a, the sloper V8 crux at the 30 foot mark was unreasonable for me, the first ascentionist. The route would not be contribution to the climbing community, which is the end goal... crazy I know. As it stands now, the line is a very fun mid-13 that gets full winter sun. A nice addition to the canyon.