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Pac Man Rock
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The Marathon Crack 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas & Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: The Marathon Crack. Less than vertical tips to fin...

Description 

The west face of Pac Man Rock is home to this short but striking splitter that slashes it's way up a steep, featureless slab.

A balancy start in a thin crack/seam that's mostly tips gives way to actual fingerlocks higher as the angle steepens. The climb though short is demanding and requires good technique and a cool head to succeed. Two stars out of five only because it's not longer.

Protection 

pro to 1" (pro to 2.5" for anchor)


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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 12, 2010

Two distinct cruxes for avg height climbers, one just short of midway and one at the very top turning onto the slabby finish. A couple of good fingerlocks get you off the ground, then it's long reaches between flaring tips openings and lieback edges until it opens up in a couple spots in the upper half. Take multiple small stoppers smaller than tips and concentrate cams in the black alien/00tcu/purple C3 size, along with singles of the next three sizes up. There are only one or two openings large enough for typical "finger" sized cams, i.e. yellow tcu/alien, and you'll probably skip placing gear in them since you need to crank on them. Perhaps only 25' of real climbing, the final 15' is very low angle.