The Mantle of the Leprechaun 5.10a/b PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Mark Tjaden, Marc Aune, and Kathy Carpenter, October 2004. |
| Season: | Fall/Summer/Spring |
| Submitted By: | Cory P on Sep 14, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Dave at the anchors.
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Description This is an easy route for this grade; it could potentially be rated at a 5.9+, but it is a 5.10a/b due to a tricky start and a tough series after a big ledge about halfway up. It is easy to go to the side on the harder portions to make it easier, although this destroys the rating. It is a great warm-up climb.
Location The route is on the far north side of Sayers' Wall, just to the left of a group of pine trees. It runs over a large ledge running down to the ground, and the belay can set up just off of the trail.
Protection The route has 5 (6) bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The pro is pretty new, and very sturdy. Although it's an 80 foot climb, the bolts are well placed so that extra pro is not needed.
Leading Mantle of the Leprechaun.
Photo by Brian ...
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Janine on the crux.
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| Comments on The Mantle of the Leprechaun |
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By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.9
| My friend led this a few days ago. A really good climb. The initial edge up the first slab is tricky. There are two ways as far as we could tell. To the left or to the right. Both ways are full of temptations to use the trees next to the wall as a kind of pseudo chimney. RESIST IT! It's a lot more satisfying. Other than that pretty straightforward with the crux after the big ledge. There's always the one handhold you need. And plenty of feet to mantle to (as the name suggests). Awesome all around. Well protected. I would say it's a little easier than 5.10a/b. maybe 5.10- or 5.10a |
By Curt True
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 2, 2009
rating: 5.11-
| Going direct through the last bolt makes the route a ton more fun. I'd call the move an 11- at least. Also, not PG-13. Just have your belayer spot you on the start. |
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
May 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 PG13
| Straight up from under the bolt would make this route higher than 5.10- due to the friction. Moving left or right a bit feels like cheating but keeps the route at or below 10-. Staying left of the last 2 bolts could bump the grade to much more difficult than right. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| Decent route but loses a star for all the easy climbing between start and finish. A lot of people calling this PG-13; can't see that. |
By Michael Neuder
From: Colorado Springs, Co
Apr 17, 2011
| Interesting route with a slabby smear start. Easy climbing in the middle with some interesting moves at the top. |
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Jul 29, 2011
| There are 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. |
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