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Desperado S,TR 
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Leave It To Beaver T,TR 
Mantel Route, The S,TR 
Mr. Cornflakes S 
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Red Red Whine S 
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The Mantel Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,278
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Jul 8, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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Leading the mantle, about half way up. Most of the...


This route is about in the middle of the slab just right of Mr. Cornflakes. At the base of the route is a large block (about 2.5 feet tall). You can use this to distinguish it from the many other bolted routes on the slab.

The crux comes in the middle of the route where you clip a bolt from an easy stance and then try to move up with little to no hands.


Eight bolts. Double bolt anchor with chains at the top.

Photos of The Mantel Route Slideshow Add Photo
Shows some of the better sport routes on the slab ...
BETA PHOTO: Shows some of the better sport routes on the slab ...
Top down belay on the mantel route headed up to ju...
Top down belay on the mantel route headed up to ju...
Eric rappelling down.
Eric rappelling down.
Past the crux.
Past the crux.
Tough Onsight, but pretty colors :)
Tough Onsight, but pretty colors :)
Leading the mantle, gets a little empty just above...
Leading the mantle, gets a little empty just above...

Comments on The Mantel Route Add Comment
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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
May 13, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As the name suggests, a mantle at the crux (in the middle of the route) helps a lot. Great moves, and fun climbing throughout.
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very tricky crux. The last bolt is a good twenty feet from the chains, but it's a pretty easy climb up, but still best to be careful. Fun climb. The crux can be a little frustrating.
By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
Nov 29, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's nice to be excited on 5.8. And by excited I mean gripped out of my mind. Protection is plenty adequate, but low percentage move of the kind you just have to love on the most polished of polished quartzite... I love this route.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009

This was the first route I led after moving to Utah. I had been climbing for a number of years in So. Cal. The crux really took some thought and reminded me of some of the slab routes on granite.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The crux of this really took me by surprise. I had to stand there and look at the little holds on the side of the mantel, but after I commited to it it was really no problem. Not a good beginner lead.
By Greg Halliday
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Good climb, but I would have to say it's harder than a lot of other 5.8s. The only reason is that most people don't think to use some of the moves you need on this climb. I thought that it was a little balancey for the grade. Once you've done it, it sure could be 5.8 and maybe less, but onsight, not so much. Two examples (although both crack climbs and probably not generalizable): Seibernetics and 30 Seconds Over Potash are both easier to onsight.
By Jim Knight
Oct 20, 2011

ratings are based on physical difficulty, not technique. the rating is proper. climb smart. what better way to build your good route-reading/finding skills and sound technique than on an fun climb like this that makes you think?
By Greg Halliday
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Nov 6, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

You're right about climbs being rated by physical difficulty, not technique. I think I was just feeling sorry for myself getting kicked around a bit by a 5.8.
By Dakota Belliston
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The routes on this wall were pretty confusing. I Believe I started to combine this route with the route to the right. ~ 3-4 bolts up is your obvious crux. Move seams a little harder then a 5.9 move because you don't have any hand holds. Take your time. It's all there.
By vanman798
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I've climbed this a number of times and every time I think this isn't a 5.8. Then today I looked it up on MP and I see the consensus is putting at 5.9. That seems much better. Just to get the consensus a little higher I gave it 5.9+, but 5.9 is about right. It's called the Mantel Route as mantelling is the key to getting through the no-hands section.
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