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 ADVANCED
Diarrhea Dome - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Brown Eye, The T 
Explosive Diahrrea T 
Manly Dike, The T 
Svapada T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Manly Dike 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Charles Cole, Dave Evans, Margie Floyd and Todd Gordon, 1985, FFA: Jonny Woodward and Darrel Hansel, 1989
Page Views: 1,870
Submitted By: fubar on Jun 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Manly...isn't it....

Description 

The big, obvious quartz dike. Gaining the dike is 5.12, but easily aided (A0) on less-than-inspiring bolts. The rest of the climb (5.11) is a continuous, excruciating test of balance. Just as mental for the follower as the leader. Top out on Big Brown Eye or rap.

Protection 

15-16 bolts.


Photos of The Manly Dike Slideshow Add Photo
Murf and Epi on the dike.
Murf and Epi on the dike.
Gordo on FA
Gordo on FA

Comments on The Manly Dike Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Mar 7, 2011

Is calling this one the "Best Dike Climb in the World" going too far? Likely it is, but you'll feel that way after finishing it; what a coup for Gordo, DEE, MFE, and CC. Mere mortals can do the easy aid to the dike. From there, increasing angle and shrinking foot holds lead to a distinct crux about 2/3's the way across. Regardless of guide book text, it is at least .11c and you'll probably only get one shot at it. It not, some big air awaits. As mentioned above, almost as big of a challenge awaits the second.

Most of the bolts could use an upgrade. 60m rope is perfect for the rap.
By Dom Ngo
From: West Kootenays
Dec 19, 2011

This was taken from the taco thread: supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

On the FA of the "Manly Dike," I placed a short bolt ladder onto the dike (I think I scoped it). Then it was Todd's turn. He went up and did this section (to a stance another 10 feet right) and HAD to place a bolt. Well, someone had to and he was there. It was the hardest bolt placement I have ever witnessed in my life. It took him 45 minutes to get the tools in hand as it was so steep (he kept saying "I can't drill here"). THEN it took another hour and a half to get the hole started (he had to keep dropping the tools to keep from tipping over backwards). THEN it took another hour to get the hole finished (whoa, he COULD drill there). Needless to say, he was pretty worked when he lowered off (Margy on the marathon belay).
After that it was Charles's turn. He had the (climbing not drilling) crux. He got a bolt in and after one fall cranked through and finished it up.
Later some fellows named Hensel and Woodward freed the start.