|Diarrhea Dome - South Face
The Manly Dike
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Charles Cole, Dave Evans, Margie Floyd and Todd Gordon, 1985, FFA: Jonny Woodward and Darrel Hansel, 1989|
|Page Views: ||1,827|
|Submitted By: ||fubar on Jun 8, 2010|
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The big, obvious quartz dike. Gaining the dike is 5.12, but easily aided (A0) on less-than-inspiring bolts. The rest of the climb (5.11) is a continuous, excruciating test of balance. Just as mental for the follower as the leader. Top out on Big Brown Eye or rap.
Murf and Epi on the dike.
|Comments on The Manly Dike
Mar 7, 2011
Is calling this one the "Best Dike Climb in the World" going too far? Likely it is, but you'll feel that way after finishing it; what a coup for Gordo, DEE, MFE, and CC. Mere mortals can do the easy aid to the dike. From there, increasing angle and shrinking foot holds lead to a distinct crux about 2/3's the way across. Regardless of guide book text, it is at least .11c and you'll probably only get one shot at it. It not, some big air awaits. As mentioned above, almost as big of a challenge awaits the second.
Most of the bolts could use an upgrade. 60m rope is perfect for the rap.
|By Dom Ngo|
From: West Kootenays
Dec 19, 2011
This was taken from the taco thread: www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=626758&tn=60
On the FA of the "Manly Dike," I placed a short bolt ladder onto the dike (I think I scoped it). Then it was Todd's turn. He went up and did this section (to a stance another 10 feet right) and HAD to place a bolt. Well, someone had to and he was there. It was the hardest bolt placement I have ever witnessed in my life. It took him 45 minutes to get the tools in hand as it was so steep (he kept saying "I can't drill here"). THEN it took another hour and a half to get the hole started (he had to keep dropping the tools to keep from tipping over backwards). THEN it took another hour to get the hole finished (whoa, he COULD drill there). Needless to say, he was pretty worked when he lowered off (Margy on the marathon belay).
After that it was Charles's turn. He had the (climbing not drilling) crux. He got a bolt in and after one fall cranked through and finished it up.
Later some fellows named Hensel and Woodward freed the start.