Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | Mike Paul and Bill Russell |
Page Views: | 7,123 total · 38/month |
Shared By: | Will S on Nov 9, 2008 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This offwidth crack through a roof is a classic exercise in bathanging and awkward lip enounters. If you don't fancy hanging upside down, it has gone with a more conventional horizontal squeeze approach and would be more easily protected that way with readily available cams (6 friend/camalot).
The crux is turning the lip, and could go many ways depending on your imagination and/or size of body parts. Strenuous, unique, and whimsically absurd.
Location
From Hidden Valley, drive to Echo-Tee, turn left as for Echo Cove/Rusty Wall and keep your eyes on the base of the hillside to your left. About 100 yards past the large pullout on the right for Echo Cove, there is a one car pullout on the right where you can park (this is the same parking spot for Reverberation Rocks, found in the Echo Cove section of MP).
The route is easily spotted as a wide crack splitting a roof on a large boulder, about 200 yards south from the road, at the base of the hillside opposite the entrance into to Echo Cove.
Protection
Protection on lead would be difficult for this if you bathang it, at least for the first part of the roof. The lip at the start is about 9", tapering deeper. You could likely push a 6 friend way up in there, but then cleaning or walking it would be a problem or entirely out of the question.
Closer to the lip a constriction goes as narrow as 5", but on these bathang jobs you want to place the pro behind you so climbing around it would present it's own problems. If you own some Valley Giants, or are bold enough to solo out far enough to get a solid 6 friend, you're loving it.
If you use a horizontal squeeze approach rather than a bathang, you should be able to place and slide a 6" cam.
TR is easy enough to rig by tying off a tree way back and belaying from the top with the rope running through the crack. Slingshot TR would be problematic as the crack pinches off and is only about 1" where the rope would run.
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