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 ADVANCED
The Millstone
Routes Sorted
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Against the Establishment 
Angle of Repose 
Blockbuster 
Bush Doctor 
Calling All Karmas 
Cat Juggling 
Earthling 
Eraserhead 
Intelligient Life Form 
Lead Balloon 
Maize, The 
Miller Time 
Milling About 
Millstone Slab 
Moon Walk 
Odd Get Even, The 
Pencilneck 
Personal Jesus 
Private Hell 
Stick Figure Stays Home 
Stone Ground 
Strong Arm With the Lads 
Tie Die 
Yuppie Love 

The Maize 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Haisley, Keith Mass, Jim Howe, 1989
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011
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Description 

There is a little more suspect rock on The Maize than on the other three-star routes at The Millstone, but I wager there isnít a route on the crag that has more continuously difficult and technical climbing. Moonwalk comes close, but the crux section of that route is much shorter. Particularly if it isnít chalked up, expect a pumpy brain teaser from the time you leave the second bolt to the jug below the fifth bolt. Kudos to the Haze and the other strong-armed lads for envisioning this line and the judicious placement of the bolts Ė enough to be safe but sufficiently far apart to grab your attention. The fourth bolt is a spinner and can be difficult to clip.


Location 

Branches left from the second bolt of Stone Ground.


Protection 

Draws. Bolts rigged for lowering on top (same anchor as for Stone Ground).



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