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 ADVANCED
The Millstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Tie Die S 
Yuppie Love S 

The Maize 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Haisley, Keith Mass, Jim Howe, 1989
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011

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The Maize

Description 

There is a little more suspect rock on The Maize than on the other three-star routes at The Millstone, but I wager there isnít a route on the crag that has more continuously difficult and technical climbing. Moonwalk comes close, but the crux section of that route is much shorter. Particularly if it isnít chalked up, expect a pumpy brain teaser from the time you leave the second bolt to the jug below the fifth bolt. Kudos to the Haze and the other strong-armed lads for envisioning this line and the judicious placement of the bolts Ė enough to be safe but sufficiently far apart to grab your attention. The fourth bolt is a spinner and can be difficult to clip.


Location 

Branches left from the second bolt of Stone Ground.


Protection 

Draws. Bolts rigged for lowering on top (same anchor as for Stone Ground).



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The exports in Libya are numerous in amount. One t...
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