BETA PHOTO: The main face, coming out of Moosehead Lake
Exploding straight up from the waters of Moosehead Lake, the the biggest face of Mt. Kineo juts 800' into the air. Secluded due to the long drive and or paddle to approach, the face is rarely climbed, though climber's will find mysterious old rusty pitons, slung trees, and bolts from the unknown climbers of the past.
This has the most sustained vertical climbing of any part of Kineo, and is bathed in sunlight from the morning through mid afternoon. It stretches from the edge of the overhangs to the golf course. The water is extremely deep right to the edge of the climb, making the best approach one by boat, then starting right up. It is also possible to traverse right onto the face from a rough trail that leads from the edge of the golf course.
The rock can be tough to find placements for pro in, but when it's solid it's hard and bomber. There is a lot of loose chossy rock. Climbing teams should take care to make sure climber's don't climb above belayers, and helmets are a must.
Driving from the mainland you can drive to the golf course, but it's quicker to put in a boat at Rockwood and zip over to the main face.
Weather station 8.1 miles from here
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Main Face
10 More Lumens 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Mt Kineo
: The Main Face
This climb show's traces of mysterious climber's who have may attempted it before, mysterious rap bolts halfway up, ancient weathered gear from the 80s still shoved in cracks, but the upper pitches seem to be new ground.The climb starts on the extreme right side of the Main Face, right next to the massive overhangs. It is the leftmost crack that heads straight up this portion of the wall.Occasional ledges provide puny trees for slinging and belaying, and the line has less loose rock than typical...[more] Browse More Classics in ME
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: midcoast, maine
Dec 19, 2014
Hey - anyone who's climbed this in the past, what's the story? Before we climbed this I called around to every guide outfit in the state and besides the winter ascents of Maine Line no-one knew anything about any rock climbing that had occured, but we found plenty of old gear and a mysterious shiny bolt line. Anyone have any info or stories here?