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The Main Cliff

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A. Left End 
B. Middle Cliff Routes 
C. Radius Wall 
D. Marrow Wall 
E. Moose Bones Area 
F. Solstice Slab 
G. Right End 

The Main Cliff Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.38995, -72.84965 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,129
Administrators: Luc, KrisFiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: KrisFiore on Sep 26, 2011
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  • Seasonal Falcon Closures
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures 2016 For access issues: please review cragvt.org MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The Main Cliff is the premier attraction at Bone Mountain. It is a large, unbroken cliff band that houses several high-quality mixed routes. Most routes are 2 pitches in length, climbing corners, cracks, and weaknesses up obvious buttresses although in recent years the faces are starting to fill out as well.

    Currently, there are about 40 routes on the Main Cliff...shocking (well, not really considering the approach to the cliff itself), as the cliff runs for over a 1/4 of a mile, wrapping around the large buttress facing Interstate 89.

    Routes on the main cliff are guarded by a somewhat complex maze of talus. The further right you go, the easier the forested talus is. The right end of the main cliff has almost no talus. There is still a lot of untapped rock up on the Main Cliff. Dedication, perseverance, and patience are obligatory for route development. Great lines include; Eye in the Sky (5.10b), Family Picnic (5.7), Fuck Rumney (5.11a), and Lost in the Forest (5.8+)

    (Chris Duca on Sep 26, 2011)
    Updated April 2016

    Areas from left to right 

    Left End - The old adventure routes of the 90s.
    Middle Cliff Routes - Mix of old and new routes. Some hard stuff.
    Radius Wall - 3 long, enjoyable mixed sport lines.
    Solstice Slab - Excellent beginner trad climbing.
    Marrow Wall - Easy wandering trad lines.
    Moose Bones - Two roof cracks, a 5.9 gear route, and a hard bolted line.
    Right End - New routes. Don't miss Dust-In Bones (5.9).

    Getting There 

    Comprehensive directions can be found on the Bone Mountain main page and directions to each wall can be found via the pages for those walls.

    Peregrine Falcon Closure 

    With more climbers visiting Bone Mountain the state has taken a closer look at the Peregrine Falcon nesting. This is actually a benefit for climbers as the entire cliff used to close but we now have partial closures in effect.

    The last few years nesting sites have been on the buttress to the right of Solstice Slab as well as atop the Moose Bones routes. Expect from Solstice Slab to Moose Bones to be closed. Anything left of Solstice Slab or right of Moose Bones seems to give the raptors enough room to be happy but as always use good judgement.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 7.3 miles from here

    24 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in The Main Cliff

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Main Cliff:
    Family Picnic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   B. Middle Cliff Routes
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Main Cliff

    Featured Route For The Main Cliff
    Rock Climbing Photo: The meat of the route. The upper dihedral of Flipp...

    Compound Fracture 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  VT : Bolton Area : ... : B. Middle Cliff Routes
    A wild and exposed journey up the obvious seam/crack system. While there are hollow spots, the rock is generally much better than it looks from below. Begin as for Flippin' the Bird, breaking right into the seam at 20ft. Half way up the seam, move right over two foot ledges. Load up on small gear under the roof (fixed white tricam) and make a wild and committing move around the corner and into the wide, flaring crack. Continue up the crack with amazing exposure and good feet,...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

    Comments on The Main Cliff Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By KrisFiore
    Administrator
    From: Burlington, Vermont
    Apr 13, 2016
    CONDITION REPORT 
    Peregrine Falcon Closure for 2016 starts just right of Ulna/Radius and continues for the East side of the cliff. There is an obvious sign at the base of the cliff right before you hit the Solstice Slab.

    Working to get the far east side opened. Will post updates if any arise.
    By Derek Doucet
    Apr 22, 2016
    Thanks for the update, Chris. Also thanks for the flurry of route development at Bone and elsewhere. I'm psyched to check out your new creations. Knowing first hand the amount of work involved, I sincerely appreciate your efforts.

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