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The Main Cliff

Select Area...
A. Left End 
B. Middle Cliff Routes 
C. Radius Wall 
D. Marrow Wall 
E. Moose Bones Area 
F. Solstice Slab 
G. Right End 

The Main Cliff Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.38995, -72.84965 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,239
Administrators: Luc, KrisFiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: KrisFiore on Sep 26, 2011
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  • Seasonal Falcon Closures
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures 2016 For access issues: please review cragvt.org MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The Main Cliff is the premier attraction at Bone Mountain. It is a large, unbroken cliff band that houses several high-quality mixed routes. Most routes are 2 pitches in length, climbing corners, cracks, and weaknesses up obvious buttresses although in recent years the faces are starting to fill out as well.

    Currently, there are about 40 routes on the Main Cliff...shocking (well, not really considering the approach to the cliff itself), as the cliff runs for over a 1/4 of a mile, wrapping around the large buttress facing Interstate 89.

    Routes on the main cliff are guarded by a somewhat complex maze of talus. The further right you go, the easier the forested talus is. The right end of the main cliff has almost no talus. There is still a lot of untapped rock up on the Main Cliff. Dedication, perseverance, and patience are obligatory for route development. Great lines include; Eye in the Sky (5.10b), Family Picnic (5.7), Fuck Rumney (5.11a), and Lost in the Forest (5.8+)

    (Chris Duca on Sep 26, 2011)
    Updated April 2016

    Areas from left to right 

    Left End - The old adventure routes of the 90s.
    Middle Cliff Routes - Mix of old and new routes. Some hard stuff.
    Radius Wall - 3 long, enjoyable mixed sport lines.
    Solstice Slab - Excellent beginner trad climbing.
    Marrow Wall - Easy wandering trad lines.
    Moose Bones - Two roof cracks, a 5.9 gear route, and a hard bolted line.
    Right End - New routes. Don't miss Dust-In Bones (5.9).

    Getting There 

    Comprehensive directions can be found on the Bone Mountain main page and directions to each wall can be found via the pages for those walls.

    Peregrine Falcon Closure 

    With more climbers visiting Bone Mountain the state has taken a closer look at the Peregrine Falcon nesting. This is actually a benefit for climbers as the entire cliff used to close but we now have partial closures in effect.

    The last few years nesting sites have been on the buttress to the right of Solstice Slab as well as atop the Moose Bones routes. Expect from Solstice Slab to Moose Bones to be closed. Anything left of Solstice Slab or right of Moose Bones seems to give the raptors enough room to be happy but as always use good judgement.

    Climbing Season

    For the Bolton Area area.

    Weather station 7.3 miles from here

    19 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in The Main Cliff

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Main Cliff:
    Family Picnic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   B. Middle Cliff Routes
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Main Cliff

    Featured Route For The Main Cliff
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of a route on one of the more remo...

    Family Picnic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  VT : Bolton Area : ... : B. Middle Cliff Routes
    On par with any of the multi-pitch routes at the 82. Long, steep and thoughtful characterize this fun romp up a nice exposed buttress. start on the left side of a 70/80 foot buttress/pillar of rock in the center of the Main Cliff. The route is unmistakeable, as bolts mark the way. Pitch one is tricky little number with some balance and faith required at the crux. Finish on a nice ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.The 2nd pitch climbs steep rock up past an insecure block (step around it gingerly!!)...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

    Comments on The Main Cliff Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By KrisFiore
    Administrator
    From: Burlington, Vermont
    Apr 13, 2016
    CONDITION REPORT 
    Peregrine Falcon Closure for 2016 starts just right of Ulna/Radius and continues for the East side of the cliff. There is an obvious sign at the base of the cliff right before you hit the Solstice Slab.

    Working to get the far east side opened. Will post updates if any arise.
    By Derek Doucet
    Apr 22, 2016
    Thanks for the update, Chris. Also thanks for the flurry of route development at Bone and elsewhere. I'm psyched to check out your new creations. Knowing first hand the amount of work involved, I sincerely appreciate your efforts.

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