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 ADVANCED
The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bete Noir 
Black Toe Arete 
Borg, The 
Burnt Toast, The 
Capital Outlay 
Chuana Chavaria 
Cold Feet 
Datura 
Delilah 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk 
Don't Make Me Shave You 
It's All Gone 
Laugh the Past Away 
Locutus 
Magus, The 
Pincher 
Resistance is Futile 
Skank to Crank 
Three Doubles 
Torch & Twang 
Tout Tout de Suite 
Tower of Power 
Triage 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

The Magus 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dan Durland
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 451
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Oct 25, 2009
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The Magus topo.

Description 

If the top bit of the climb was 60 feet long, and you didn't have to do the bottom of this route, The Magus would be the best climb at Shelf....

Begin with a long, chossy, and very dirty 5.10 pitch that follows about 9 bolts to the anchor below the large bulge. From here it's fun movement over slightly chossy underclings, pinches, monos, jugs, pinches and crimps through the power endurace bulge to the anchors.

All in all this route is a fun outting, and probably the "easiest" hard route at the area.


Location 

The route starts just right of Crunch on the wall up and left of the Borg Boulder. It is the obvious, steep bulge that juts out overlooking the great black north.


Protection 

About nine bolts to the first anchor, then 5 more to the top.



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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 25, 2011

The movement & position on this line are totally rad. Easily the most exposed route at Shelf. It's too bad the first half of the bulge is rather chossy.

I didn't find the opening slab to be dirty, but it was somewhat spooky with a lot of loose-looking rock (though nothing broke on me).