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The Magician is a fun new route on the left side of Tarot Wall. Crack, face, arete, and overhang: great variety and superb position. There are several variations, and the route can be done as a 5.9 or a 5.10.
Start on the left side of Tarot Wall, left of Earth Angel and Ah Ya Punter. Look for some stone steps angling up left to the wall. There are two bolts on the face just right of the arete. This is the route. The two bolts mark the direct start, which is 5.10. The standard start (5.9) is around the corner to the left, in a dihedral with parallel fist and finger cracks.
Angle left up the stone steps to the base of the wall. Scramble up to a ledge at the base of a dihedral with parallel fist and finger cracks. Climb the cracks (5.9) and step right to the arete. Place pro in a horizontal crack (#0.75 Camalot) and step up (5.9) to a stance by a bolt. Move up to a great horn and crank past it to a ledge. Step left and climb a V-shaped rock to another ledge. Step left, clip a bolt, and continue left to the overhang by the arete. Work up on funky holds and clip another bolt. Turn the overhang by the bolt, or for more fun, go farther left and crank the overhang using an airy rail (5.9). Clip a final bolt on the slab and traverse right to the anchor. Lower back down. Belay your second up and have them clean the pitch.
1. 5.10: Scramble up to the ledge below the dihedral with two cracks. Traverse right and clip a bolt on the face. Work up and clip a second bolt, and make a crux move (5.10) up to a finger crack. The easiest line climbs a little right of the bolts. Continue up face and cracks to the horizontal crack of the standard variation.
2. 5.10: Scramble up to the ledge below the two bolts on the face. Place pro in a finger crack on the right then step up and clip the first bolt. Continue up as in variation 1.
On the arete at the left side of Tarot Wall, about 50' left of Earth Angel.
The easiest approach is around the left side of Avalon. Cross the creek and head up to the first tier by the route Mists of Avalon. Continue left up a path to the left side of Tarot Wall. The path reaches Tarot Wall just left of the route Earth Angel. Walk left about 50' and you're at the route.
For the 5.9 variation: pro up to a #3 Camalot plus 4 bolts. I placed a #3 Camalot, a red tricam, a #0.75 Camalot, and a pink tricam in addition to the 4 bolts. A #2 Camalot could be placed at the start below the #3 Camalot. To sew up the crack, bring a #4 Camalot and place it above the #3.
For the 5.10 variations: pro up to a #1 Camalot plus 6 bolts. Red Alien and/or #0.75 Camalot for the finger crack above the first two bolts.
Bring a few extendable runners since the pitch traverses in places.
2-bolt anchor. The anchor is a little tricky to clip since it's out on the face to the right. It was placed there to minimize rope drag for lowering and top-roping.
BETA PHOTO: The Magician, showing the standard start (5.9) and...
BETA PHOTO: Easiest approach to The Magician. Go the the First...
Ron Olsen latching the great horn just above the b...
Marga Powell on the 5.10 start.
Marga Powell approaching the starting cracks.
Marga Powell at the top of the 5.9 crack start.
Marga Powell cranking the airy move past the horn.
Marga Powell turning the overhang at the top.
Peter Dillon at the crux of the 5.10 start.
Peter Dillon on the 5.9 crack start.
Carol performing magic on Variation 2, 8-29-09.
|By Randy Carmichael|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Not the most aesthetic climb, but fun moves throughout. The bolt line for the top portion of the climb takes a hard left at the overhang and then comes back right again to the anchors. Best to use a long sling on your cam/nut placement before taking the hard left.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Aug 20, 2007
With some traffic to clean it up, this will turn into a nice addition to Avalon. Several cruxes and nice variety. Kudos for leaving it a mixed route and not bolting the whole thing. Bring a couple of long slings, and save one for the last bolt (over the top), so the rope will run more smoothly to the anchors on the right.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Aug 14, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I think the direct start on this one goes at about .10c . I don't really see the point in bolting only half the route, the addition of two bolts to this route would make it a much safer line. I actually climbed to the horizontal before realizing I needed gear. This was in part because I could see bolts higher up, and also saw the two bolts close together down low, so I figured it was well bolted. I would not be surprised if others made the same mistake.
|By Brent Apgar|
From: Out of the Loop
Apr 22, 2012
Maybe the L hand start is better. But I thought that climbing up the line to the right side of the bolts was more than a little sketchy. Not so much that there's loose rock, more like there's huge sections where everything is simply decomposing.
So long story short, it's not really cleaned up. There's even loose flakes/holds from the last ledge to the chains.
Just a heads up.
|By Mark E Dixon|
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Jun 21, 2012
Might be fun if you like dirt, lichen, loose rock and death flakes. There isn't likely to be a wait.
Jul 11, 2012
It definitely dirt, a lot of lichen up top, but still a fun route. I did the 9 and 10 start. I would call the 10 start a 10-, it didn't seem much harder than the 9 start, and before you know it you're back on the same route. I did like fact that it is mixed, placing gear increased the fun.