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The Magician is the first and largest formation on the ridge. On it's top is the historic Forest Service fire lookout tower which is still in use today. A system of rickety stairs ascends the west face of the formation to access the tower. On Sundays, Marge, and her black cat Spooky, the usual occupants of the tower during the summer months, will often bake cookies for climbers willing to pay her a visit.
Approach routes on the west face and the long ones that begin at the foot of the formation by heading down a trail that branches right (south) just beyond the low point before ascending up to the foot of the stairs. Follow faded red bows that are tied to the foliage (it's worth it to keep your eyes peeled for these.
2 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Magician:
Poof 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R Trad, 4 pitches
Magic Dragon 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R Trad, 10 pitches
Featured Route For The Magician
Magic Dragon 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Magician
Magic Dragon is supposedly the longest climb in the Needles at 10-12 pitches and very enjoyable. From the approach trail into the Needles, split off to the right at the saddle before ascending up to the foot of the lookout tower stairs. Follow a decent trail down and generally south and east. It's worthwhile to stay on the trail which is marked by little faded red bows tied in various trees and bushes. Eventually you will reach the sheer west face of the Magician (which, incidentally, has a ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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