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Routes Sorted
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Electric Swimming Pool S 
Mad Scientist Variation, The TR 
Mad Scientist, The S 
Mantle of the Leprechaun, The S 
Pike's Peak S 

The Mad Scientist 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, September 2004
Page Views: 3,373
Submitted By: Cory P on Oct 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of the route, showing the features well.

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great, fun route just to the right of Pikes Peak. There is a long run out to the first bolt, and be prepared to smear, but it is a great climb. The crux comes on a steep slab near the 5th-6th bolt area.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of The Mad Scientist Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux section.
BETA PHOTO: The crux section.
Rock Climbing Photo: "Sprint Point" - definition, leading san...
"Sprint Point" - definition, leading san...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the anchors on Mad Scientist.
BETA PHOTO: At the anchors on Mad Scientist.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mad Scientist.
BETA PHOTO: Mad Scientist.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the anchors.
At the anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Whalen on the runout slab to the first bolt.
Tim Whalen on the runout slab to the first bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: A look up the route.
BETA PHOTO: A look up the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim starting the crux section.
Tim starting the crux section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Boom, got it. Onsight "Sprint Point" to ...
Boom, got it. Onsight "Sprint Point" to ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the "Sprint Point". No hands al...
Starting the "Sprint Point". No hands al...
Rock Climbing Photo: The no hands lead climb challenge.
The no hands lead climb challenge.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Mad Scientist indeed....
The Mad Scientist indeed....
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up the rap for The Mad Scientist. One of m...
Setting up the rap for The Mad Scientist. One of m...

Comments on The Mad Scientist Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 17, 2016
By Heath
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 17, 2008

DO NOT TRUST the 4th bolt on this route. It spins completely around. I did not have any tools, so I was not able to tighten it :(

Heath
By Tom Hanson
Jun 17, 2008

Heath, is the bolt itself spinning, or just the hanger?
A spinning bolt requires tightening or replacement, while a spinning hanger is awkward to clip, but represents no decrease in strength.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 20, 2008

I was there two days ago. The nut on the hanger was loose and I tightened it with my hand, but I didn't have a wrench.
By Joey Jimenez
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 13, 2008

My wife and I did some laps on this route yesterday and didn't notice any problems with the bolts or hangers. I realize the previous post was nearly a month and half ago - I will assume it has been fixed. Thanks to whoever put in the work.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 18, 2009

Contrived. The crack to the right of the crux is very nice and easier. Would have been better as a mixed bolts and gear route.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definitely not 5.8 if you climb the crack to the right, which is hard to avoid, the holds just take you that way. Fun climb nevertheless!
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 3, 2010

I agree. This route is no more than 5.7 now, especially if you go right like most folks. The direct line is borderline 5.8.
By Mike Smyth
From: Spartanburg, SC
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Was climbing "The Mad Scientist" 2 days ago and noticed the top anchors seem a bit wiggly and loose. Didn't have a wrench or epoxy with me. Be careful out there.
By Mike Smyth
From: Spartanburg, SC
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I called Front Range last week and was informed that someone would be out there to dress it up. Apparently they have a contract to maintain the routes. Thank you Front Range for helping to keep us safe out there.
By Cody E
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2014

Right bolt loose. Hand tightened, no tool. Left is a cemented-in eye bolt...seeeemed bomber(?). Little wary rapping down it though.
By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

5.8 ??? .... go climb a 5.8 on the 'Silver Cascade Slab' in Cheyenne Canyon, then re-rate this climb.
I remember leading this last year, and the spiciest move was maybe a 5.7-.
By taylor520317
Aug 30, 2015

Right anchor loose - both bolt and hanger spin.
By David Tennant
From: Denver, CO
Oct 19, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought this had a good array of movement, and I loved the run-out slab at the start. It flowed well. I would encourage extending at least a few of the bolt placements with a shoulder length runner to reduce rope drag. I also thought the crux was fun, thoughtful, and well-protected.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 9, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The right hanger and bolt at the anchor are still spinning!

Going straight up the bolts felt in the 5.8 range.
By Cody Baxter
May 27, 2016

The third bolt was slightly loose a couple weeks ago, it wasn't spinning but was wiggling.
By Tim Brogan
Jul 17, 2016

Right anchor bolt was loose. Didn't have a tool to fix it. Marked the bottom of the route with some medical tape that said it was loose for follow on climbers.

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