The Luminosity 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Jul 17, 2002 |
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Christa Cline traversing left around the big roof ...
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Description Follow the approach to the Main Wall of Solaris. The Luminosity starts under a big triangular roof, 85' left of Mission to Mars, and 10' left of Tower of Power. Climb up into a right-facing corner under the big roof, turn the roof on the left, and continue up the left edge of a steep face to the anchors. Belay from a good ledge at the top, or lower 75' to the start. The best route on Solaris.
Protection 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring three or four longer runners to minimize rope drag.
Christa Cline making the crux step right above the...
| Marga Powell stepping right at the crux.
| Unknown climber lowering off the upper section of ...
| Erik Marr at the crux.
| BETA PHOTO: Upper section of The Luminosity. Great route!
| The start of Luminosity. It has an interesting st...
| The Luminosity.
| Turning the corner/roof.
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| Comments on The Luminosity |
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By Ivan Rezucha From: Boulder, CO Oct 29, 2003 rating: 5.9
| Maybe 5.9 by Boulder Canyon sport standards, but there are much harder 9s. The fun move is the move left at the roof--squatting there trying to figure out what to do with your head. The moves up and right above the roof are also tricky. I wanted to go right just above the lip... |
By Steve Marr From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 7, 2006 rating: 5.9
| I thought this was another great route on Solaris. Fun, sustained climbing to the anchors, with great position. The final moves up the arcing hand crack just below the anchors are great. I would agree with Ron - the best route on Solaris, and worth going back to. |
By Matt Gates From: Pinewood Springs, CO Aug 13, 2006 rating: 5.9
| Don't pass this one up! Excellent route that will clean up in time. Recommend that the belayer be wearing a helmet and glasses as there is an occasional lichen shower and/or pebble size rock. There are also some fist size rocks waiting to be pulled out as well. 50M rope just gets you down. Don't forget your knots in the ends though! |
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO May 25, 2007 rating: 5.9
| I really liked this route. Fun, varied moves and nice length and nicely bolted. |
By djoseph Sep 19, 2007 rating: 5.9
| One of the best sport 9s that I've been on in BC. Interesting moves and great views. This and The Memory of Trees at Watermark are my favorites at the grade. |
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Aug 11, 2008 rating: 5.8+
| This is a fun route with big, positive hand holds for the entire thing. It is a sequence of interesting moves shifting your weight around. I would say there isn't a single move harder than 5.8, but it is sustained throughout. |
By jcntrl From: Smoulder, CO Jul 8, 2009 rating: 5.8
| Nicely varied climbing (backstep, layback, you can even fingerjam if you really want) on positive holds the whole way. Recommend using a double-runner on the bolt inside the dihedral; this will help with rope drag a bit later, but it's manageable without. 5.9? It's a "boulder canyon 5.9" which means it's more like 5.8. Whatever. 5.youcan or 5.youcan't. |
By David Hankin Nov 1, 2011
| During early September, I pulled off a hunk of rock about the size of a book at the crux. So.... it's a little harder now. To pass the crux, there was this side pull off to your right. Ya. It's not there anymore. Good luck. It's still a blast of a route. |
By Jeff Chrisler From: Boulder, CO Mar 25, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| Yeah, when I climbed it today, I was confused about the sequence above the roof. Having climbed it before, I remembered a nice hold to get your feet over to the right and eventually up. Without the hold, it's definitely harder- perhaps 10a. |
By joefbtg28 May 17, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| One of the best 5.9 sport routes in Boulder Canyon! Turning the roof and next few face moves are the crux. The flake at the top is my favorite section. |
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