The Lucky Side
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|Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
This is sort-of a new route. It shares the upper thrid with the original line, but the majority of the route is new.
The line starts 30 feet right of the original route. I was a bit nervous about the stability of the first two placements, so I looked for an alternative to reach the upper crack. There is a cleft to a crack 30 feet right that allowed for funky free climbing to reach the upper third of the original route.
The start is a bit scary... loose oppositional climbing for about 20 feet before you get a good piece. More wierdness, then a wide section with a bombay for a crux. It may only be 5.9.... I was alone and it felt 5.10 to me. Continue on then traverse left to the original line and begin aiding up the rotting crack.
The crack goes clean, but its got some very soft, grainy spots that could easily break up under force. I think its solid C2.
Take the "Primitive Trail" from the east end of the parking lot for 120 yds. Follow the ravine to the tower. Its real close.
This line starts 30 feet right of the original line.
At least a double set with lots of large stuff. I found a #5 friend useful in the aid section to take advantage of the better rock. Lots of offset nuts, though I did not stust my offset cams in the soft placements.