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The lower bolted anchor removed from Italian Arete at the Slips?
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Jul 15, 2007
I hate to even bring up the topic of removed bolts, but does anyone have any insight into the bolted anchors that were removed from the Italian Arete? They were at the end of the first pitch, on the face you're climbing on, right before the huge ledge that sits below the anchors for all the other pitches to the right.

The bolts were pulled and patched quite well, but having to share chains (all 1 or 2 links of it) with the route to the right sucks, IMHO. Is this just a case of returning a route to its original state?

Thank you.
phUnk
Joined Nov 26, 2006
5 points
Jul 15, 2007
...
ohhh no... delete this thread before it picks up steam.

why did they do it? the same reason that people cut down the tyrolean and other people put it back up again. people do what they want based on their own ethics, morals, or just to piss other people off.

whether the anchor should have stayed is almost not important, it is gone now. don't rock the boat!
John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Aug 28, 2002
1,303 points
Jul 15, 2007
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah
Here we go agine.
Lame
mikewhite
Joined Feb 28, 2007
98 points
Jul 15, 2007
Any straight answers out there? :) phUnk
Joined Nov 26, 2006
5 points
Jul 15, 2007
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah
phUnk wrote:
Any straight answers out there? :)



nope.
If you wanted straight answers you came to the wrong place!!!
mikewhite
Joined Feb 28, 2007
98 points
Jul 16, 2007
Actually, Mike....Phunk probably came to the right place. We can most no doubt deduce WHO removed them. (Who put up the route?, Whose anchors WERE they? Whom amoung us knows about proper bolt removal and patching?)
Maybe the chains were worn out? Mike, though I haven't climbed there for forever, it seems it may be a place for some aggressive top anchor replacement. I bet chains here get worn out quick (does anywhere else get this much traffic?)....but to remove them and not replace them, well one can do that to your routes on MP, but to edit beginner routes withut saying or doing anything about it seems the epitomy of lameness. Case closed
James Garrett
Joined Jun 1, 2005
4,521 points
Jul 16, 2007
I noticed that as well. I thought I was crazy at first and that there had never been any anchors there, but then I saw the patched holes. Someone else at the base of the cliff did argue with me about there not being 4 anchors up there... until he got to the top.

Definitely a pain. Think they should be replaced? I do.
sevrdhed
Joined Oct 23, 2006
157 points
Jul 16, 2007
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
John J. Glime wrote:
the same reason that people cut down the tyrolean


Actually this is totally unrealted to the anchor removeal. Because of the death there last year the tyrolean is now "known" by the Forest Service. And because of liability they must remove it anytime they now know someone has put it back up. So you can expect this to happen on a regular basis.

Of course there is also the chance that some other chumps will remove it cause they can. IMHO the trrolean has been and always will be a bad idea. The Slips is a beginner area and using a tyrolean to cross fast moving water with beginners is a bad idea. Quite frankly I am surprised that there has been only one fatality so far.
Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Joined Jul 6, 2007
1,132 points
Jul 16, 2007
Cleaning the Green Adjective on my first climb in ...
The anchors were missing when I climbed there a few months ago. It's true the you can share the chains with the climb to the climber's right - but its such a crowded area (and the guide book mentions that there are separate anchors) - so the end result that I witnessed were parties literally sharing the anchors at the same time while top-roping, which strikes me as particularly unsafe. I also saw a few very sketched out first time leaders having mini epics as they searched for the missing anchors.

I don't understand why anyone would chop an anchor on a bolted 5.6 face climb in a beginner area. What a waste of time...
Ryan Lauck
From Farmington, UT
Joined Aug 8, 2006
317 points
Jul 18, 2007
white gold at maple.
this is TC's route... do we need to say more? icsteveoh
From salt lake city, UT
Joined Jun 21, 2006
561 points
Jul 19, 2007
Maybe these were the anchors that TC was unhappy that someone chopped- just sayin'- although I don't know why he wouldn't have just said that these were the ones he was talking about.

Bolt wars suck. :(
samg
Joined Aug 22, 2006
45 points
Jul 20, 2007
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah
S. Gileadi wrote:
Maybe these were the anchors that TC was unhappy that someone chopped- just sayin'- although I don't know why he wouldn't have just said that these were the ones he was talking about. Bolt wars suck. :(


Sounds like tony did the work on his own route.
mikewhite
Joined Feb 28, 2007
98 points
Jul 21, 2007
Bummer. I can't comprehend the motivations behind that removal, whether it was TC or anyone else. samg
Joined Aug 22, 2006
45 points
Jul 21, 2007
Lot's of hippie love to all!
mountainproject.com/v/utah/was...

mountainproject.com/v/utah/was...

Anchors? I don't see any on the topo. Restoring the route to it's original condition,or freaking out beginners? Only Triple "o" knows!
Luke Douglas
Joined May 21, 2006
618 points


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