The Low Horns Rock Climbing
All of the horns in view on our approach hike 9/22...
The Low Horns form the final northern section of "The Needles" section of the Organ Mountains, ending at Big Windy Canyon on the north, and the higher needles beginning with The Spire to the south. Gertch is essentially the west buttress of Low Horn #1, even though Gertch's west facing wall is much more impressive than the smallish tooth like summit of Low Horn 1. From the West, the Low Horns lean uniformly to the south, and climbing them from the north appears to be easier than the south. The east faces are also much steeper than the west faces.
East approach is recommended. Start on the north fork of the Pine Tree Trail. Leave the trail at the second gully heading up. A short, fat log among the boulders at the bottom of the gully serves as a land mark. Go up left of the gully itself up a shallow draw to avoid brushy terrain. Once the slope ahead starts increasing, your direction will depend on which Low Horn you are going for.
For Low Horn 1 of the saddle between 1 and 2 go to the gully to the right and up it for a short distance before taking to the slabby terrain on the left. You can stay out of the gully for the saddle between 2 and 3 and plot your way by sight. Likewise, but farther left, for the gully between 5 and 6, which is also suitable for descent. It doesn't appear to practical to ascend between 4 and 5, although with some raps, you could descend that way.
Western approach (not recommended) would be up the Big Windy Canyon from the Topp Hut. There used to be a trail back in the day between Topp Hut and Big Windy, now it's a mess of cat claw. Ingraham's guide describes an approach from the bowl between Gertch and Gertch's Half Brother among others. Expect long approach times 2-3 hours and bushwhacking. With some more use, climbers trails will form quickly, but old cairns appear to date from Ingraham's day, and bits of trail, if you find them, seldom amount to much. Even for Gertch's Folly the modern approach is from the east.
Climbing Season For the Organ Mountains area.
Weather station 11.1 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Low Horns
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Low Horns
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Low Horns:
Featured Route For The Low Horns
Gertch's Folly 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NM
: Organ Mountains
: ... : Gertch
One of the Classic climbs of the Organ Mts. It takes an obvious weakness up the cliff with mostly good rock, and comfortable belays. The last pitch tackles a headwall with beautiful exposure and clean granite.Pitch 1: climb the corner under a large roof. Pass an old 1/4" bolt to a ledge just below the roof where another old 1/4" bolt is found. Belay from here, or continue up around the right side of the roof and belay at another large ledge with a tree.Pitch 2: Continue up the corner/crack syst...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Low Horn #5 in center, as viewed from the Pine Tre...
As seen on an early morning approach hike. Low Ho...
By Robert Cort
Sep 23, 2012
I'm going to call these the "Slow Horns." If you rope up, it will be very slow to cross the horns. My suggestion if going north to south: scramble Low Horn 1, rope up for Low Horn 2, scramble Low Horn 3 if you're bold (rope for me), scramble Low Horn 4, rope for a short pitch on Low Horn 5, then scramble over the top of it (although you might want to rope up for a short pitch on 5c too. As for 6, well...the horns are slow, we ran out of time.
By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Sep 17, 2013
Low Horn 6 can also be scrambled, but again some climbers will choose to rope up. Doing all six Low Horns in one day is an ambitious goal. After the first four, you are not even to a half-way point. If you do go for it, pick a day when it's not too windy. The wind up there does tend to be quite high and you'll be scrambling a lot of it to make time.