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The Love Nest

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adolescent Behavior S 
Boy's Don't Cry S 
Newton's Law 
Shakin' Like Milk S 
We Don't Need No Stinking Badges S 

The Love Nest 


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Page Views: 1,573
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 17, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: A view of The Love Nest from the approach trail.

Description 

The Love Nest is a mostly south-facing clump of rocks across the road from Cap Rock which offers several excellent sport routes in a sunny and very convenient location. The climbs Shakin' Like Milk (5.11b), We Don't Need No Stinking Badges (5.11c) and Boy's Don't Cry (5.12a) are located here on a single, well-featured pillar, and are all must-do's for those climbers who complain that Joshua Tree has no sport routes.


Getting There 

The best approach to this formation is to park in a pullout due west of the formation and follow a worn path five minutes east to the crag. The parking area is almost directly across from where the old Lost Horse road comes out, and a stop sign will be noticeable to the observant.


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Love Nest
A good look at the thin start. Photo by Tony Sartin.

Shakin' Like Milk 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Love Nest
This route is the right-most line on the Love Nest formation and starts in a shallow corner and then finishes on the face above. A steep start on large but somewhat loose holds leads into a shallow, right-facing patina corner with the crux moves exiting onto the tan face above. The finish appears desperate but reach high enough and a hidden hold will magically appear. The easiest of the Love Nest routes, this is a good warm-up for the adjacent lines if need be. Complex moves on good rock make ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Love Nest Slideshow Add Photo
The 1/2 century man grooving in the winter sun at The Love Nest. Photo by Jan McCollum.
The 1/2 century man grooving in the winter sun at ...
The Love Nest as seen from the desert floor.
BETA PHOTO: The Love Nest as seen from the desert floor.
Love Nest Area. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Love Nest Area.
Photo by Blitzo.
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