BETA PHOTO: A view of The Love Nest from the approach trail.
The Love Nest is a mostly south-facing clump of rocks across the road from Cap Rock
which offers several excellent sport routes in a sunny and very convenient location. The climbs Shakin' Like Milk
(5.11b), We Don't Need No Stinking Badges
(5.11c) and Boy's Don't Cry
(5.12a) are located here on a single, well-featured pillar, and are all must-do's for those climbers who complain that Joshua Tree has no sport routes.
The best approach to this formation is to park in a pullout due west of the formation and follow a worn path five minutes east to the crag. The parking area is almost directly across from where the old Lost Horse road comes out, and a stop sign will be noticeable to the observant.
Climbing Season Traffic By Month
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Love Nest
Shakin' Like Milk 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : The Love Nest
This route is the right-most line on the Love Nest formation and starts in a shallow corner and then finishes on the face above. A steep start on large but somewhat loose holds leads into a shallow, right-facing patina corner with the crux moves exiting onto the tan face above. The finish appears desperate but reach high enough and a hidden hold will magically appear. The easiest of the Love Nest routes, this is a good warm-up for the adjacent lines if need be. Complex moves on good rock make ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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The 1/2 century man grooving in the winter sun at ...
BETA PHOTO: The Love Nest as seen from the desert floor.
Love Nest Area.
Photo by Blitzo.