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The Love Nest is a mostly south-facing clump of rocks across the road from Cap Rock which offers several excellent sport routes in a sunny and very convenient location. The climbs Shakin' Like Milk (5.11b), We Don't Need No Stinking Badges (5.11c) and Boy's Don't Cry (5.12a) are located here on a single, well-featured pillar, and are all must-do's for those climbers who complain that Joshua Tree has no sport routes.
The best approach to this formation is to park in a pullout due west of the formation and follow a worn path five minutes east to the crag. The parking area is almost directly across from where the old Lost Horse road comes out, and a stop sign will be noticeable to the observant.
5 Total Routes
Featured Route For The Love Nest
We Don't Need No Stinking Badges 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Love Nest
This is the left route on the Love Nest proper and follows a line more or less up the left arete/face. Start off a block on the left arete of the formation and make airy moves around the corner via face moves and a short hand crack. The crux comes soon after and involves a thin face traverse to the right with a balancy slab section guarding the anchors at the top. Steep moves down low with a challenging and balancy upper section make this another great route for this area. Three stars out of f...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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