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The Love Nest is a mostly south-facing clump of rocks across the road from Cap Rock which offers several excellent sport routes in a sunny and very convenient location. The climbs Shakin' Like Milk (5.11b), We Don't Need No Stinking Badges (5.11c) and Boy's Don't Cry (5.12a) are located here on a single, well-featured pillar, and are all must-do's for those climbers who complain that Joshua Tree has no sport routes.
The best approach to this formation is to park in a pullout due west of the formation and follow a worn path five minutes east to the crag. The parking area is almost directly across from where the old Lost Horse road comes out, and a stop sign will be noticeable to the observant.
4 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Love Nest
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Love Nest:
Shakin' Like Milk 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
We Don't Need No Stinking Badges 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Boy's Don't Cry 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For The Love Nest
Shakin' Like Milk 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Love Nest
This route is the right-most line on the Love Nest formation and starts in a shallow corner and then finishes on the face above. A steep start on large but somewhat loose holds leads into a shallow, right-facing patina corner with the crux moves exiting onto the tan face above. The finish appears desperate but reach high enough and a hidden hold will magically appear. The easiest of the Love Nest routes, this is a good warm-up for the adjacent lines if need be. Complex moves on good rock make ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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