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The Love Nest

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adolescent Behavior S 
Boy's Don't Cry S 
Newton's Law 
Shakin' Like Milk S 
We Don't Need No Stinking Badges S 

The Love Nest  

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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 17, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: A view of The Love Nest from the approach trail.


The Love Nest is a mostly south-facing clump of rocks across the road from Cap Rock which offers several excellent sport routes in a sunny and very convenient location. The climbs Shakin' Like Milk (5.11b), We Don't Need No Stinking Badges (5.11c) and Boy's Don't Cry (5.12a) are located here on a single, well-featured pillar, and are all must-do's for those climbers who complain that Joshua Tree has no sport routes.

Getting There 

The best approach to this formation is to park in a pullout due west of the formation and follow a worn path five minutes east to the crag. The parking area is almost directly across from where the old Lost Horse road comes out, and a stop sign will be noticeable to the observant.

Climbing Season

Weather station 11.0 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Love Nest
Depumping on the flake. Photo by Tony Sartin.

We Don't Need No Stinking Badges 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Love Nest
This is the left route on the Love Nest proper and follows a line more or less up the left arete/face. Start off a block on the left arete of the formation and make airy moves around the corner via face moves and a short hand crack. The crux comes soon after and involves a thin face traverse to the right with a balancy slab section guarding the anchors at the top. Steep moves down low with a challenging and balancy upper section make this another great route for this area. Three stars out of f...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Love Nest Slideshow Add Photo
The 1/2 century man grooving in the winter sun at ...
The 1/2 century man grooving in the winter sun at ...
The Love Nest as seen from the desert floor.
BETA PHOTO: The Love Nest as seen from the desert floor.
Love Nest Area. Photo by Blitzo.
Love Nest Area. Photo by Blitzo.

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