2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route is to the right of The Buzz (5.12d) in the amphitheatre right of the actual Bitty Buttress route. Scramble up to a ledge below a bolt about ten feet above you and belay. Climb up and clip the first bolt and gain a semi-exposed ledge. Clip the second bolt, and lay down and unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag. The meat of the climb is three boulder problems separated by rests with the rests getting worse after each boulder problem. Probably, the most continuously steep route in the canyon and maybe a stiff 13b at that.
10 bolts. Reach down and unclip the first bolt after you clip the second to reduce rope drag.
What's the story with the cement/glue "bridge" feature in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 (2nd and 3rd off the ledge) at the first crux? I definitely don't see any purpose for it except to improve a horrendously bad finger lock.
This is one of the best sport climbs in Boulder Canyon that I have done; super steep sustained and challenging, not to mention impressive looking. The start free of the "glue bridge" entails one of the shittiest finger locks you should ever hope to grab, the middle features a cryptic hand jam to sloper sequence, and the finish is climatic, with a wild reach to the lip of the roof like feature that the Lorax ascends. The 12a to the left makes a good warm up and is classic in it's own right. As an added bonus, you get to commune with the mountain pigeons that live in the chimney!