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Bitty Buttress
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The Lorax 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jim Redo
Page Views: 2,510
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Jan 29, 2003
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  • Description 

    This route is to the right of The Buzz (5.12d) in the amphitheatre right of the actual Bitty Buttress route. Scramble up to a ledge below a bolt about ten feet above you and belay. Climb up and clip the first bolt and gain a semi-exposed ledge. Clip the second bolt, and lay down and unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag. The meat of the climb is three boulder problems separated by rests with the rests getting worse after each boulder problem. Probably, the most continuously steep route in the canyon and maybe a stiff 13b at that.


    Protection 

    10 bolts. Reach down and unclip the first bolt after you clip the second to reduce rope drag.



    Comments on The Lorax Add Comment
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    By Joe Collins
    Jun 9, 2006

    What's the story with the cement/glue "bridge" feature in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 (2nd and 3rd off the ledge) at the first crux? I definitely don't see any purpose for it except to improve a horrendously bad finger lock.

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Nov 6, 2006

    The glue should go. It's a deliberately created hold that doesn't appear to be necessary. Until it's cleaned up, it's an AO route.

    By Joe Collins
    Nov 23, 2010

    I ran into a well-known local climber the other day in the Blob area who claimed that he had just removed the glue feature from the starting crack/seam. My guess is that it is now a bit harder.

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Nov 25, 2010

    Good to hear.

    By Cedar Wright
    Nov 27, 2012
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

    This is one of the best sport climbs in Boulder Canyon that I have done; super steep sustained and challenging, not to mention impressive looking. The start free of the "glue bridge" entails one of the shittiest finger locks you should ever hope to grab, the middle features a cryptic hand jam to sloper sequence, and the finish is climatic, with a wild reach to the lip of the roof like feature that the Lorax ascends. The 12a to the left makes a good warm up and is classic in it's own right. As an added bonus, you get to commune with the mountain pigeons that live in the chimney!