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Outhouse Rock - East Face
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Diagonal Chimney T 
Loo Sanction (aka Mt. Witness), The T 
Straight Flush T 
Strawberry Jam T 
Wise Crack T 

The Loo Sanction (aka Mt. Witness) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: (TR): Todd Swain, May 1991, FL: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, November 1991
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: Bo Johnston on Oct 6, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: The East face of Outhouse Rock showing The Loo San...

Description 

This is really not such a bad route if it weren't for the first 20 feet. The start is difficult, grainy and wide with little enjoyment to be had. After leading up to the first bolt I pulled the rope through the pro so that my partner could climb up the left side of the pedestal which was much better. Anyhow, the bolted section is amazing! You'll need to move left and nearly campus up liebacked edges and dynos!! Very cool! The finishing roof underclings are good as well with adequte pro and be sure to extend those runners to avoid drag. Give this one a try if you're feeling adventurous.


Protection 

A standard rack up to #3 Camalot for the top and bottom of the route and there are 3 well placed bolts in the middle. There are rap anchors down the west face to decend and not much at the top to belay from.


Location 

Mt Witness is in the middle of the east face of Outhouse Rock which lies just up the hill from the back end of the Hidden Valley Campground loop. It is not hard to find in that it is the only route on the face with 3 bolts in a row.



Comments on The Loo Sanction (aka Mt. Witness) Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 11, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb is located midway between Strawberry Jam and Straight Flush and as noted has some fun climbing once you get past the start. One star out of five.

By Murf
Oct 11, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Ahhhh.... 98% sure I've done it.

By Richard Shore
Mar 26, 2012

Are Loo Sanction and Mr. Witness the same route? The descriptions here suggest so, and the photo/topo of LS looks identical to the MW route, but is mis-drawn slightly to the left. I'm under the impression that LS is left of MW, and as of 03/2012 it appeared that all but the first bolt on LS have been chopped. Can anyone clarify?

By Richard Shore
Mar 26, 2012

Very fun liebacking and heel-hooking! The start isnt too bad, you can easily scramble/solo up the left side of the pedestal to the first bolt.

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Mar 26, 2012

Loo Sanction and Mt. Witness are the same climb, I believe;...Todd Swain top roped Loo Sanction, and Cyndie Bransford and I bolted Loo Sanction, not knowing is had ever been done before. Swain got there first, but we did the first lead;..that's my take on it anyways....

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 27, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The Loo Sanction and Mt. Witness are indeed the same route, so they have been merged into one. Not sure how that one slipped throught the cracks but good catch Richard!