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The Long Reach
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
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Routes in Beinn Trilleachan - Etive Slabs
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Long Reach, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Pinch - Direct Start, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Spartan Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 754 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Euan Cameron on Sep 16, 2007 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
This is arguable one of the finest routes on the slabs - bold climbing on perfect granite.
1. Climb a slim groove up rightwards to a ledge and belay.
2. From the belay climb up leftwards on the perfect slab, until a very committing move up onto a quartz dike can be made. Follow the dike up left to the belay.
3. Move up to the overlap of Swastika. Pull through the overlap, and go up right and belay on a short corner.
4. Move up left and climb a slab passing a quartz pocket. Reach up and continue up and left to the belay below a mini overlap.
5. Climb up and over the overlap, then up and right to below a crack in the overlap.
6. Pass through the overlap on long reaches and follow the groove up until possible to exit via a crack.
Descend using the obvious path on the right.
1. Climb a slim groove up rightwards to a ledge and belay.
2. From the belay climb up leftwards on the perfect slab, until a very committing move up onto a quartz dike can be made. Follow the dike up left to the belay.
3. Move up to the overlap of Swastika. Pull through the overlap, and go up right and belay on a short corner.
4. Move up left and climb a slab passing a quartz pocket. Reach up and continue up and left to the belay below a mini overlap.
5. Climb up and over the overlap, then up and right to below a crack in the overlap.
6. Pass through the overlap on long reaches and follow the groove up until possible to exit via a crack.
Descend using the obvious path on the right.
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