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Barks Canyon Wall
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The Long Lead 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Fall thru Spring
Page Views: 3,040
Submitted By: Mike on May 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: View from the base of the Long Lead.

PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun 3 1/2 pitch route with spectacular scenery, decent rock (for The Supes), and some exposure. P1: Make a few face moves to get into a squeeze chimney. Ascend the chimney and cracks to a ledge. A short 5.6ish pitch. P2: Step up and right over a pocketed face, then up and left into a large right-facing dihedral (visible from the ground.) Climb up the dihedral until a face up and right brings you to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8, 140'. P3: Scramble up and left into a wide chimney. Bridge and chimney up past a chockstone (sling for pro) and then exit out right. Step across chimney to left and mantle over a small ledge, then low-angle face & crack to base of next chimney. P3 & 1/2: Scramble up the chimney (3rd class) then chimney for about 10' (5.easy) past a chockstone to summit.

Location 

Located on the left (east) side of Barks Canyon Wall underneath a squeeze chimney. Descent is to scramble down the backside, then around to the East and down to the base.

Protection 

Bring a standard rack from small to about a #3 camalot. Leave the micro pro at home because of rock quality; there are plenty of placements using only small to medium pro. Small Tricams work decently in pockets on face if runout is getting to you


Photos of The Long Lead Slideshow Add Photo
Nick coming up the 1st pitch.
Nick coming up the 1st pitch.
Chimney on Pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Chimney on Pitch 3
Finishing up the last 30' of the second pitch. Easy climbing on huge pockets.
Finishing up the last 30' of the second pitch. Eas...
The first half of the second pitch.  Fantastic stemming!
BETA PHOTO: The first half of the second pitch. Fantastic ste...
Don't go straight up here for The Long Lead.  Face climb on pockets to the right.   <br /> <br />Does anyone know what the climb straight up is?
Don't go straight up here for The Long Lead. Face...
Dihedral on P2 (it's more vertical than it looks in this pic)
BETA PHOTO: Dihedral on P2 (it's more vertical than it looks i...
The Long Lead. P1.
The Long Lead. P1.
Levi coming up the last bit of face climbing on pitch 3.
Levi coming up the last bit of face climbing on pi...

Comments on The Long Lead Add Comment
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By JaredVagy
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Feb 12, 2012

This was an interesting climb. The first pitch was a little awkward. The second pitch has some wildly fun stemming in the dihedral but I had difficulty protecting it - a little heady. You then traverse up to the belay on two rusty bolts. The next pitch is a fun chimney where you belay on top of the chock stone (the webbing on the chockstone below the belay is old and not safe to clip). Belay on top of the chockstone above with 2 inch gear. Final pitch involves going up and left over the boulder above (protects well). Go up and left to a hole to finish or you may be able to go right and straight up a fun but unprotectable looking chimney. To find the anchors after the last pitch, climb up and over a bulge and traverse/downclimb (use a belay) north and once you cross to another rock go up and west 5 feet to the top of the formation and 2 shiny rap bolts on the west side. Hike out south. There was one additional rappell that we had to re-rig with a coordalete. Long approach, poor rock quality, you can cheat the squeeze chimneys with face holds - but overall it was fun! One star - maybe
By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Classic! Pitch 1 is good, but the 2nd pitch is a gem. The stemming is stellar and pulling around the roof is fun as well. Pitch 3 is okay, next time I would do the R last pitch of Stroke It Gently instead.

Beta Alert:(To add to the description if you want a bit more detail)

Pitch 1: 5.7 90' A bit awkward to get started. Stem, offwidth, and chimney on mostly good, but semi spicy gear. Angle eases off after 50' and crack widens, I belayed 40' after this w/ a C4 .5, 2, 3 on a nice ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.8 130' Don't go straight up into the overhanging OW. instead, step immediately right onto face for 15' into a beautiful looking 70' dihedral. Lots of thin cams and small nuts make the gear bomber. I wished I had a purple and green C3, for this section but it's fine without. After that climb out right from a big roof and continue on easier face climbing to a huge ledge on the right. 2 bolt anchor(old bolts). Use lots of slings to avoid drag. This pitch is 4 stars and amazing the whole way.

Pitch 3: 5.6 60' Short pitch, but grovely in the chimney. Consider slinging gear and follower trailing pack between legs. Clip webbing around a chock and head straight up on the OUTSIDE of the chock. A few more fun face moves to gain another chock lead you to the 3rd class stuff. Lots of options for belay.

Descent: Walk straight back to find webbing with a quick link to rap about 50' and head south to find trail back to Bluff Springs Trail. Bring a bit of webbing to replace old stuff.

Rack: 1x set nuts, 1x cams from blue MC-orange MC, 2x .5-#3 C4, optional set of C3's to sew it up (I did). 12 slings. I think I used everything at least once, especially the smaller stuff.

The rock is surprisingly good in the back of the crack where thin gear works best. I placed all of the smallest nuts and cams I brought on P2, and they were bomber.
By RyanJames
Feb 3, 2013

Definitly take singles of the micro pro. This desert rock eats it up. Definitly used the 00 (and even 000 from what I remember) on P1 and P2.