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But for a Silver Bullet ...  
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Lone Ranger, The 
Love, Honor, and Belay 
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Unsorted Routes:

The Lone Ranger 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: June 30, 2009. Lora Woods, Tom Woods, Bruno Haché and Bill Woods.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: Tom Woods on Jul 10, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The Lone Ranger is the route shown on the right, w...

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Description 

The Lone Ranger is a new trad route located to the left of Tom Thumb and to the right of But for a Silver Bullet. This is a good beginner trad climb. Approximately 60 feet long.

Start slightly to the right of the slot that becomes Funhouse Chimney, and move up and right to a ledge. Move right to a large dihedral and crack located on a corner buttress. Opportunities for placing good protection abound in this crack. Lieback up the crack for about 20 feet before reaching a solid ledge big enough for both feet (same beginning as But for a Silver Bullet). Once atop the buttress, move up and right to the anchor hooks for Tom Thumb and lower.


Location 

20' left of Broken Arrow.


Protection 

All trad. Good protection all the way. Small to medium cams and assorted small to medium stoppers. Two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Anchor shared with Tom Thumb.



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By Umph!
Feb 27, 2010

Fair and fun enough at 5.6 - with OK gear for the 5.6 leader.
I'm curious what the line to the left is (has a single bolt above a finger crack). . . just right of the chimney. It has a few bolts and some rap anchors.

Thanks

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 11, 2010

FYI, that jug/chockstone just above the ledge ~25' up is loose. It shifts when you stand on it.

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2012

Useful companion climb to But for a Silver Bullet. Neither is really that interesting, but they are good practice. I found the gear placements just "OK" - I placed a lot of nuts.

By George Bracksieck
Nov 25, 2012

I thought this was an interesting lead, but I would NOT recommend it as a beginner's lead.