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The Lone Ranger is a new trad route located to the left of Tom Thumb and to the right of But for a Silver Bullet. This is a good beginner trad climb. Approximately 60 feet long.
Start slightly to the right of the slot that becomes Funhouse Chimney, and move up and right to a ledge. Move right to a large dihedral and crack located on a corner buttress. Opportunities for placing good protection abound in this crack. Lieback up the crack for about 20 feet before reaching a solid ledge big enough for both feet (same beginning as But for a Silver Bullet). Once atop the buttress, move up and right to the anchor hooks for Tom Thumb and lower.
20' left of Broken Arrow.
All trad. Good protection all the way. Small to medium cams and assorted small to medium stoppers. Two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Anchor shared with Tom Thumb.
Feb 27, 2010
Fair and fun enough at 5.6 - with OK gear for the 5.6 leader.
I'm curious what the line to the left is (has a single bolt above a finger crack). . . just right of the chimney. It has a few bolts and some rap anchors.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 11, 2010
FYI, that jug/chockstone just above the ledge ~25' up is loose. It shifts when you stand on it.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2012
Useful companion climb to But for a Silver Bullet. Neither is really that interesting, but they are good practice. I found the gear placements just "OK" - I placed a lot of nuts.
|By George Bracksieck|
Nov 25, 2012
I thought this was an interesting lead, but I would NOT recommend it as a beginner's lead.