2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is up the gully between Vampire Rock and Black Widow Slab. You can see this wall from the road when driving up to the parking. It is up behind Vampire essentially.
We were not sure what to call this place...does it have a name already?
For now we will call it The Loft.
Park as for Vampire Rock. Approach as for Vampire, then continue up gully to right. Follow cairns up, staying on the left side of the gully, then branching right near the top. A short scramble step leads you up to the ledge where the routes start (off left after ascending step).
This is a nice little route uphill from areas. It has fun but hard to read climbing. An onsight would be proud! Start in small crack (between orange lichen streaks - crux) and continue up the wall. Pull over a small bulge/overhang and angle up face near right hand arete.The crux crack feels a bit committing because of the ground being close and a lack of gear. There is a really good stopper placement (long reach) that does protect the crux, although it is hard to reach up and clip it in......[more]Browse More Classics in CO