|Sports Challenge Rock - East Face
The Lobster climbs the thin crack system between Leave it to Beaver and Clean and Jerk. Climb Leave it to Beaver up to the ledge, place a small cam (yellow Alien) in a pocket and traverse left to the start of The Lobster crack. The crux involves thin smearing thatís protected by a hard to place micro nut. If the nut rips youíll take a large fall on a bomber medium sized nut lower down. The upper half of the climb is easy and well protected. You probably wouldnít deck on this climb with a good belay but itís still exciting none the less.
Just left of Leave it to Beaver.
Finger to thin hand sized cams, medium nut (#7 hb offset)and a micro nut ( #2 bd micro nut)
Brad clipping the first piece of gear on The Lobst...
Brad leading The Lobster.
Brad at the crux section of The Lobster.
|By C Miller|
Apr 9, 2014
This line is a direct start to another route, Dick Enberg (5.11a), which climbs the tree next to the face before transitioning into the crack proper.
Due to the existing gear at the time the first lead of this route was done using pitons but as Brad notes protects decently with modern gear.
May 13, 2014
Dick Enberg essentially does NOT exist anymore, since the pine tree has fallen over.
The tree was in declining health for many years and died a couple years back (but was still upright). For a few years, climbing the tree (which was increasingly leaning further from the face) was not really possible. It fell within the last year.
So, the only way of doing this line now is via The Lobster.