The Lizards Kiss
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On 4 April, 2004, Deb Castro and Dave Daly established a new route on the northwest slabs of Moro Rock. There is no evidence to support the passage of other climbers or existing variations to any other routes on this section of Moro Rock.
Start at the right side of the northwest slabs (50 feet left of the steep wall of the West Face and left of the start to 'Rio Bravo'). Scramble up easy 4th class slabs for 30 feet to a narrow ledge. Once at the ledge, locate a crack that ascends to a headwall with a block. Ascend the crack (thin pro: #3 Stopper) to the block. Climb the right side of the block (.5 Camelot Jr. helpful) and make an awkward mantle up and over (5.8) to open slabs. Climb the slab (5.6) up and slightly left. Pass two horizontal flaring cracks (#2 and #3 Camelot) and climb 160' feet to a ledge. (Note: this is the same ledge from which the last rappel was made). Belay from here.
Move the belay 50 yards up and left near the end of the terrace, just below a water polished right facing corner (possibly weeping water in the early season). Start here and climb the corner (5.7) for 40 feet (pro to #1 Camelot). Once at the top of the corner, exit to the left and then head straight up on open slab for 80 feet (5.6/5.7....no pro!). The top of the slab becomes slight debris and moss covered...use caution!. Locate a large boulder and belay from here. Either conitnue to the top of the northwest shoulder for several pitches by ascending 'Link' (5.6) and 'Holy Grail; (5.7) or relocate the 3rd/4th class ramp and ascend the approach trail.
As a note of caution, be very watchful for rattlesnakes and fire ants. This party experienced a large population of fire ants all throughout the lower sections of the northwest slabs.
From the Moro Rock parking lot, go up the stairs for approximately 75 yards and locate a flat notch that overlooks the norhtwest side of Moro Rock and views (barely) into the central valley. Scamble over this notch and onto the open slab. Once on the slab, go next to where the wall meets the slab and locate 2 stainless steel bolts. This is new rap line to the base of the NW Slab of Moro Rock and was placed in May 2005. A total of 7 rappels. Whenb rappelling from the 3rd anchors station to the 4th, move left 100 feet as you rappel down to anchor #4. Anchor #4 is located on the side of a large block, somewhat out of view. It is just before a large 3rd class ledge, 30 feet above. From #4, rappel straight down for three more rappels before getting to the base of Rio Bravo and the open slab to the left (contains Journey To Ixtalan' 5.8 R). Start The Lizards Kiss 40 feet left of the start to Rio Bravo.
(2) 60 meter ropes
Pro to #3 Camelot (small nuts helpfull too)
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