This climb starts on the arÍte of a huge boulder for 3 bolts than transfers to the cliff for the remaining bolts. I found the route had 3 distinctive crux. From layback to a slab mantel this route is sure to give you food for thought.
It's just left of the route Tang on the right side of the crag.
11 bolts if I remember well
Working up the Arete
Jenny Chin on the top part.
|By Franz Buzawa|
Aug 14, 2010
2 stars is about right. With lots of exposure and serious fall potential through the upper section (after you move off of the initial arete), this one's not for the faint of heart or for the novice 10a leader.
I'd also like to see the anchors moved from the present location--which is incredibly awkward to get to and doesn't add significant value to the climb to the face just below. That ledge would provide a good, safe position to clip the anchors from and rope drag would be about the same if the new anchor was placed high enough.
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Oct 7, 2010
FA was Ed Esmond.
I thought this was a good route. It is slightly heady feeling though, so doesn't get done as often as others nearby. I don't remember anything particularly odd with the anchor placement. Watch the end of your rope when lowering. More than one person has been dropped through inattention even with a 60 meter rope and the landing is not good.
|By Anna C.|
Sep 24, 2012
Well worth it if you're solid at the grade. Great position and fun moves on the upper section. I thought the thrutch to the anchors was in keeping with the rest of the climb ... makes you earn it!