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The List Southern AZ climbs in need of repair.
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Mar 26, 2014
fa Dog Fights Alright .-11, Dog Park
Many climbers don't have the means, time or desire to replace old fixed gear, but the safety of fixed protection affects all of us and the people we know and love. I do it occasionally because I feel a sence of duty, and maybe I'll earn some good karma, but I too have limited means, time and desire.

I'd like to start a List of routes with questionable, but needed old fixed protection, or better yet, encourage someone who is more active in the climbing community to create and maintain the List.

The List can be used by good Samaritans wishing to report an unsafe condition, or by climbers that have the means and experience and are interested in doing some community service, or by climbers that would rather not play russian roulette with there lives.

When I say Needed protection, I mean, in some instances the fixed pin or bolt may no longer be needed due to modern protection devices. Example; Cherry Jam.

I'll start The List;

Klingons in the Nuetral Zone had two pins in need of replacement.

The East Buttress of Table Mountain needs 4 or 5 bolts replaced.

The upper pitches of Don's Crack needs a couple new bolts.

Still Running

Trail of my fears

Colorado Crush

Town without pity

Labyrinth

Branching out (route to right)


Writers cramp

Mendoza; talk to Jeff he has been replacing old bolts out there for years now.

Rap Rock:

Helms Deep, Isengard....and others

Let me Know of other routes and I'll place them on The List. Let me know when they are repaired so they can be removed from The List.

Or please take over the List duties.

Thanks, Brian
1970's 1/4" bolt W/ Aluminum hanger
1970's 1/4" bolt W/ Aluminum hanger
brian benedon
Joined Jul 28, 2010
923 points
Mar 28, 2014
Toofast
Please add: still running & trail of my fears in bastion towers. A handful of original bolts on each. Most are split shafts as I recall so they can be pulled and redrilled. Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jun 7, 2006
3,333 points
Mar 28, 2014
A few that come to mind:

Colorado Crush--first pitch (direct) bolts need to be replaced. They protect insecure 10+ slab, and the second bolt is especially bad, probably from the first ascent of the direct. The belay a the top of P2 could use replacing at some point, but not as pressing.

Town Without Pity--first pitch belay bolts, which appear to be from the first ascent. Currently the only way to back them up with gear is to climb the crux of the second pitch to get the back-up piece in.

The Labyrinth, Rockfellows--there is an ancient bolt in the main chimney and another up high, both in relatively key spots, that could use replacing.

Branching Out and its newer companion route to the left (forget the name)--the old bolt belay is scary and difficult to back up. These are good routes that should get climbed more.

I'll add more if I think of them.
Charles Vernon
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,922 points
Administrator
Mar 30, 2014
Enjoying 'Ground Affects'.
Air Monsters (Mount Lemmon / North Fin) -- The second to last hanger fell off while I was at the anchors. I was able to locate the nut, but not washer, and hand tighten it.

I'll start carrying my wrench in my pack and put together a small maintenance kit. Apologies for the amateur repair job on this one.

As a side note the bolt on Writer's Cramp looked scary from a distance but then again the route did as well. Might be worth looking at but I don't really know.
Hendrixson
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Sep 1, 2007
3,139 points
Mar 30, 2014
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"
Awesome thread Brian. It should be made "sticky" in the AZ/NM forum. Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Joined May 6, 2010
90 points
Apr 2, 2014
fa Dog Fights Alright .-11, Dog Park
Town without pity was Karl's finest route according to him.

It would be nice to repair this one. It looks awesome from the ground, but it looks hard.
brian benedon
Joined Jul 28, 2010
923 points
Apr 2, 2014
I'm hoping to go back there this summer to do the one left of it (Stoned Man's Dream?). I'll make it a point to either borrow a drill or go with someone who has one and deal with that anchor on Town Without Pity. If someone else gets to it first, let us know. Charles Vernon
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,922 points
Administrator
Apr 27, 2014
Enjoying 'Ground Affects'.
Power Hungry could use a real chain anchor after the first pitch. The current anchor consists of two, non-rappel bolts. At the moment there is seven different pieces of tat of unknown age and three biners at this anchor.

The route deserves maintenance as it is amazing and sees more traffic than many routes.

Air Monsters has been rebolted and the bolts have since been tightened. Hence it can be removed from the list.
Hendrixson
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Sep 1, 2007
3,139 points
May 16, 2014
Awesomeness!
Does Knights of the Wrong Tissue still have the bed frame hangers on it? My scared ass backed off because they could be pulled out by hand. Otherwise it's a great climb that I would love to get on again and/or assist in the replacement of said mank.

Edit: Bolts have been replaced. Thanks Luke!
Chris Horton
From Tucson AZ
Joined Jul 3, 2010
261 points
Nov 13, 2014
fa Dog Fights Alright .-11, Dog Park
There are two bolts in the Inner Passage, I don't know if anybody uses them, but one bolt has pulled out about an inch. brian benedon
Joined Jul 28, 2010
923 points
Apr 8, 2015
fa Dog Fights Alright .-11, Dog Park
See this thread about a botton head failure resulting in a death.

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2...



The broken pin on Golder Dome showed the rust patterns described in this thread.

So far I have concentrated my efforts on replacing 1/4" bolts that are 30-40yrs old.

The tragic bolt failure resulting in death was a 5/16 button head. We should wake up and get the remaining bad bolts replaced before a tragedy like this hits us here in So AZ.


1/4" button head
1/4" button head


broke when I clipped it. 1st P Klingons
broke when I clipped it.
1st P Klingons
brian benedon
Joined Jul 28, 2010
923 points
May 3, 2015
fa Dog Fights Alright .-11, Dog Park
someone recently told me that the Finger could use an anchor replacement.

I don't remember it that way. Has anyone been up there lately? Does it need chains or just rap bolts?
brian benedon
Joined Jul 28, 2010
923 points


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