The List Southern AZ climbs in need of repair.
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Many climbers don't have the means, time or desire to replace old fixed gear, but the safety of fixed protection affects all of us and the people we know and love. I do it occasionally because I feel a sence of duty, and maybe I'll earn some good karma, but I too have limited means, time and desire. |
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Please add: still running & trail of my fears in bastion towers. A handful of original bolts on each. Most are split shafts as I recall so they can be pulled and redrilled. |
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A few that come to mind: |
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Air Monsters (Mount Lemmon / North Fin) -- The second to last hanger fell off while I was at the anchors. I was able to locate the nut, but not washer, and hand tighten it.
I'll start carrying my wrench in my pack and put together a small maintenance kit. Apologies for the amateur repair job on this one. As a side note the bolt on Writer's Cramp looked scary from a distance but then again the route did as well. Might be worth looking at but I don't really know. |
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Awesome thread Brian. It should be made "sticky" in the AZ/NM forum. |
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Town without pity was Karl's finest route according to him. |
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I'm hoping to go back there this summer to do the one left of it (Stoned Man's Dream?). I'll make it a point to either borrow a drill or go with someone who has one and deal with that anchor on Town Without Pity. If someone else gets to it first, let us know. |
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Power Hungry could use a real chain anchor after the first pitch. The current anchor consists of two, non-rappel bolts. At the moment there is seven different pieces of tat of unknown age and three biners at this anchor.
The route deserves maintenance as it is amazing and sees more traffic than many routes. Air Monsters has been rebolted and the bolts have since been tightened. Hence it can be removed from the list. |
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Does Knights of the Wrong Tissue still have the bed frame hangers on it? My scared ass backed off because they could be pulled out by hand. Otherwise it's a great climb that I would love to get on again and/or assist in the replacement of said mank. |
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There are two bolts in the Inner Passage, I don't know if anybody uses them, but one bolt has pulled out about an inch. |
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See this thread about a botton head failure resulting in a death. |
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someone recently told me that the Finger could use an anchor replacement. |