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The Legendary Nuclear Bomb 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeep Gaskin, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuerrman, 1986
Season: year round, shade until 12:30 in summer
Page Views: 1,602
Submitted By: andjoely on Aug 23, 2010

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Description 

The best water groove ever. With TCU's (which they didn't have on the first ascent) the route may or may not deserve a solid R rating depending on how brittle your bones are / how lucky you are, but for all the cruxes you are a above your pro making for commiting climbing. The final crux bulge is a potential ankle breaker due to the fall onto a 65 or 70 degree slab from a vertical bulge when your feet are about 6 feet above gear.

P1: Climb steep groove past numerous horizontals to an easy roof, then climb groove past 3 bolts to a gear belay with hand sized cams in a horizontal (5.10d) - I found the crux of this pitch to be the hardest single move on the climb
P2: Climb groove and then the face left of the groove past 3 bolts. After the 3rd bolt a small hybrid alien or probably a small TCU in a horizontal in the groove protects what used to have been a runout to the 2 bolt anchor. (5.11a)
P3: Climb sustained laurel knob style stemming groove past 2 bolts until the terrain eases. continue up to a steep bulge protected by gear in a horizontal at the base. Though you are not especially far above your gear, this bulge might be the most dangerous part of the climb due to the slick rock and potential ankle breaking / ankle spraining fall. The bomb flake is no longer there. Continue up to 2 bolt anchor to the left atop which is part of prey (the route you rappel to get down) (5.11b)
P4: continue up easy groove to top (5.8)


Location 

Obvious steep water groove just left of the Odyssey


Protection 

doubles of cams to #2, one #3 including hybrids if you have them. may want some tricams too though I don't recall any key placements that only take tricams. many of the horizontals take bomber nuts too.



Photos of The Legendary Nuclear Bomb Slideshow Add Photo
A friend rope-soloing the first pitch!
A friend rope-soloing the first pitch!
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By Bob Rotert
Sep 12, 2010

What a route!! It took two Looking Glass slab masters to pull this one off. The vision & name of this route was Jeep Gaskin's and this line was put in up to the final crux pitch and attempted by Jeep with various partners several times before the route was completed. Monty Reagan deserves high credit for doing what was the "stopper crux lead" on this climb and pulling off the complete first ascent of this humbling route with Jeep.