This is an amazing laser cut water groove and streak that probably should have been climbed a long time ago. In my opinion it is easily one of the best routes at Laurel Knob. Start up high on a wooded ledge, same as for Nannas Bananas. FYI: This route dries long before Manatee Fluid (for reference).
P-1. Very fun pitch if dry. Climb the left-hand groovy crack thing to a ledge and belay from bolts. 5.9. (Alt if wet, climb the 4th class slab on right to same ledge)
P-2. 5.11 The money pitch... Climb the water streak and groove past 10 bolts (2 have been added) and gear, varying from small C3's to a possible #4 camelot. Belay at 2 bolt anchor at 185'.
P-3. 5.9 Climb the moderate groove past 2 bolts and gear to bolt anchor at 175'. There is a cool #4 camelot placement in the groove up high on this pitch.
P-4. Pretty uneventful, but if you've just gotta top out the groove... then climb an easy 5th class pitch to the same rap anchor as for Nannas.... and Laurels Girdle. It is slightly out left of the groove above the mossy ledges.
Rap route. If the first pitch is wet, it might be best to rap the apron on Manatee left to avoid getting ropes wet.
This is the groove to the right of nannas bananas and left of the most wet streak at LK
Standard rack up to #4 camelot. Hybrid aliens are useful but not necessary.
By andjoely From: Menlo Park, CA Apr 12, 2010 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
This route is really cool with awesome moves and awesome gear in deep pockets. You all should do it now while its dry and before it gets too hot. It seeps when the water table is high like most of this past winter.
Well that's a nice Xmas gift! I'm a bit rusty and the R was keeping off.
By andjoely From: Menlo Park, CA Nov 7, 2011 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
for reference, it rained pretty heavily saturday night and friday morning but this thing was completely dry by early afternoon on saturday like nearly all grooves on the wall. (The overall cumulative rainfall in the past several months seems to be somewhat low).
The bottom line is that Andrew and I received a scathing email from the party who bailed from the route due to some runouts. I agreed to add a few bolts because I thought that was the right thing to do to make it safe and worth repeating, and now you're calling me lame. Wow, things have really changed in this state! If you've got something you wanna to say, then please just send me a PM and keep this site clutter free. Jeez...
This should help clarify some of the previous comments. After hearing all the great reviews from the FA party boasting about great gear and amazing holds, I led the 5.11 crux pitch with Tim Synder (Gneiss Pirate) with no falls. I didn't climb it as a continuous pitch though. Just below the last bolt, I fiddled with a worthless stopper and down-climbed back to a no-hands stance to built a natural gear belay. Finishing the rest of that pitch felt much better without the weight of 120' of rope scraping across the bulge. While attempting the 2nd pitch, I climbed an unprotected section of 5.8+ left of the groove, to what looked like a very sketchy maybe 9ish move that if I botched would land me directly on my belayer from 15' above. Neither Tim nor I was happy with that thought. I reversed the moves back to the belay and we bailed. That evening I emailed Nathan and Andrew essentially asking that they consider either adding an R rating (not originally given) or adding some bolts. Without either of these, even a seasoned NC climber could get really banged up or perhaps seriously injured attempting this route. I haven't been back on it since the bolts were added, but I'm sure it's way more enjoyable with the additional protection, yet still full bore groove climbing. Thanks for listening Nathan.