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The Left Side 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Nick Taylor, Peter Peart
Page Views: 1,303
Submitted By: L Stern on Jul 25, 2009
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Excellent route. Climb through some thin face and pull out left under roof to main crack. Crack goes from fingers to OW. OW section is probably no harder than 5.9.


This pitch is located on the left side of the Split Pillar. Belay at anchor before bolt ladder on P3 (5.10b traverse pitch) of the Grand Wall. Climb route and belay at the top (you can rappel from here) or continue up Grinning Weasel about 15 ft. and make an exposed traverse right to gain belay at the top of the Split Pillar.


Single set small, medium nuts; single set .5" (green alien) to 4" cams (C4 #5 camalot). Optional extra .33" cam (black alien), 1" cam (#.75 camalot), 4" cam (C4 #5 camalot).

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By Evan Stevens
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Double up on the #4 camalots for sure, unless you like to run it out for a LONG ways. The OW is cheatable, so you don't really have to climb that style, but its more like 10- up there. This pitch used to be rated 11+, and is definitely soft for 12-, especially if you know how to jam!