BETA PHOTO: The Leaning Wall.
"The Leaning Wall" has a good mix of moderate and difficult routes. The left side of the wall has 5 moderate routes 5.7-5.9. The right side has 5 routes from 5.10c-5.12a. Most routes require some gear placements as well as bolts for protection. Rock quality is typical gritty BV granite, but the routes are cleaning up over time.... Great afternoon sun makes year round climbing possible. (This crag is labeled "Milt's Wall" in the Arkansas Valley climbing guidebook, but "Milt's Wall" actually sits just south and above the 1st set of tunnels.) Routes are described from left to right....
(1) The Orange Corner - 5.7, gear to chains.
(2) A Brief Squall - 5.7+, gear and bolts to chains.
(3) Golden Plate - 5.9 ,(5.10a 1 bolt start optional) gear and bolts to chains - left of the "Slab Tree".
(4) Classic Corner - 5.7, climb gear to the right of the "Slab Tree" up the steep corner.
(5) Slabby Steps - 5.8, just left of the "Leaning Seam"... scramble up to a bolted bulge and up to the thin lieback crack. Finish on the bolted slab above.
(6) The Leaning Seam - 5.10d, thin gear to 1 bolt and then up to chains.
(7) The Leaning Face (AKA-Backscratcher)
- 5.12a, 6 bolts and gear to chains.
(8) The Leaning Corner - 5.11b, gear and 1 bolt crux to chains.
(9) The Leaning Flake - 5.10c, gear and 3 bolts to chains.
(10) The Leaning Crack - 5.10d/11a, gear to chains.
The Leaning Wall is found by driving north on the "River Road" (Co. Rd. 371) from the town of BV. After passing through the first set of tunnels, drive 1/4 mile, just past the "Chief's Head" and park on the right before entering the 3rd tunnel. A large pine tree grows from the foot of the steep, leaning wall. 5 minutes up the moderate slope to the base.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Leaning Wall:
Slabby Steps 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Golden Plate 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
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