"The Leaning Wall" has a good mix of moderate and difficult routes. The left side of the wall has 5 moderate routes 5.7-5.9. The right side has 5 routes from 5.10c-5.12a. Most routes require some gear placements as well as bolts for protection. Rock quality is typical gritty BV granite, but the routes are cleaning up over time.... Great afternoon sun makes year round climbing possible. (This crag is labeled "Milt's Wall" in the Arkansas Valley climbing guidebook, but "Milt's Wall" actually sits just south and above the 1st set of tunnels.) Routes are described from left to right....
The Leaning Wall is found by driving north on the "River Road" (Co. Rd. 371) from the town of BV. After passing through the first set of tunnels, drive 1/4 mile, just past the "Chief's Head" and park on the right before entering the 3rd tunnel. A large pine tree grows from the foot of the steep, leaning wall. 5 minutes up the moderate slope to the base.
Browse More Classics in The Leaning Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Leaning Wall:
The Orange Corner 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet
A Brief Squall 5.7+ Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Slabby Steps 5.8 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Golden Plate 5.10a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
The Leaning Flake 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
The Leaning Seam 5.10d PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
The Leaning Crack 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet
The Leaning Corner 5.11b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
The Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher) 5.12a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Featured Route For The Leaning Wall