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The Leaning Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Brief Squall  
Classic Corner 
Golden Plate 
Leaning Corner, The 
Leaning Crack, The 
Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher), The 
Leaning Flake, The 
Leaning Seam, The 
Orange Corner, The 
Slabby Steps 

The Leaning Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Location: 38.8797, -106.14731 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,442
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Sep 4, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The Leaning Wall.

Description 

"The Leaning Wall" has a good mix of moderate and difficult routes. The left side of the wall has 5 moderate routes 5.7-5.9. The right side has 5 routes from 5.10c-5.12a. Most routes require some gear placements as well as bolts for protection. Rock quality is typical gritty BV granite, but the routes are cleaning up over time.... Great afternoon sun makes year round climbing possible. (This crag is labeled "Milt's Wall" in the Arkansas Valley climbing guidebook, but "Milt's Wall" actually sits just south and above the 1st set of tunnels.) Routes are described from left to right....

(1) The Orange Corner - 5.7, gear to chains.
(2) A Brief Squall - 5.7+, gear and bolts to chains.
(3) Golden Plate - 5.9 ,(5.10a 1 bolt start optional) gear and bolts to chains - left of the "Slab Tree".
(4) Classic Corner - 5.7, climb gear to the right of the "Slab Tree" up the steep corner.
(5) Slabby Steps - 5.8, just left of the "Leaning Seam"... scramble up to a bolted bulge and up to the thin lieback crack. Finish on the bolted slab above.
(6) The Leaning Seam - 5.10d, thin gear to 1 bolt and then up to chains.
(7) The Leaning Face (AKA-Backscratcher) - 5.12a, 6 bolts and gear to chains.
(8) The Leaning Corner - 5.11b, gear and 1 bolt crux to chains.
(9) The Leaning Flake - 5.10c, gear and 3 bolts to chains.
(10) The Leaning Crack - 5.10d/11a, gear to chains.


Getting There 

The Leaning Wall is found by driving north on the "River Road" (Co. Rd. 371) from the town of BV. After passing through the first set of tunnels, drive 1/4 mile, just past the "Chief's Head" and park on the right before entering the 3rd tunnel. A large pine tree grows from the foot of the steep, leaning wall. 5 minutes up the moderate slope to the base.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Leaning Wall:
The Orange Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Classic Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
A Brief Squall    5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Slabby Steps   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Golden Plate   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
The Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in The Leaning Wall

Featured Route For The Leaning Wall
Starting up the  Leaning Face.

The Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  CO : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall
Start behind the large tree up the corner (gear to 3/4"). Climb 6 bolts up the impressively steep, edgy wall... 25' more feet of gear to the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Leaning Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Justin Day on the Leaning Flake. Right side of the Leaning Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Justin Day on the Leaning Flake. Right side of the...
John Slezak on the Leaning Corner.
John Slezak on the Leaning Corner.
John Slezak on the Leaning Flake. the Leaning Corner is on the left and The Leaning Crack is just to the right....
John Slezak on the Leaning Flake. the Leaning Corn...
A photo of the left side of the Leaning Wall with the "slab tree" growing from the middle of the slab.
BETA PHOTO: A photo of the left side of the Leaning Wall with ...
The right side of the Leaning Wall....
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Leaning Wall....
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