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Start off under the roof and reach up into the lieback finger crack. Getting out of the overhang and into the crack is the crux. Crank up good locks on increasingly good feet to a sit down ledge. Climb up through slopey ledges to a two bolt anchor with chains.
This is the last route on the right of the main face before it turns the corner to the Home Field Advantage
. Look for a beautiful finger crack in a left-facing dihedral. You've found it.
Standard rack to 3", doubles in finger sizes.
May 22, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
When I climbed this in the late '90s, the rock quality was pretty rough. I placed what looked like a good piece in the lower flake. Luckily I decided to back it up with another piece below it (maybe blue TCU or so). I started underclinging/laying back up the flake, and a chunk of the flake broke off in my hand. The top piece blew out a pretty good chunk of the flake. I was glad I placed the second piece, as the ground was really rough and I would have eaten a serious shit-burger.
Kinda curious how the rock is these days, has it cleaned up a bit?