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The Coop
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The Last Chicken 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Geir, Marcy, and Doso
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: Geir on Oct 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Erica leading The Last Chicken

Description 

A very good, challenging route on the east face of the Coop. Start in the wide V shaped slot near the middle of the face. Clip a bolt, then head up and right in the main crack until a thin, discontinuous crack leads straight upward. Follow this crack until you reach a bulge with a bolt. Pull the bulge and head straight up to the anchor.

Location 

See overview photo

Protection 

Doubles to 2", four bolts.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 5, 2011
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Finally got to lead this route this w/e. It is fantastic! I especially like pulling the bulge near the top; great fun! Geir has a great eye for a good line!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 20, 2009

And a good woman!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 22, 2009

LOL that's for sure!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 22, 2009

a quick note on marcy's first lead of TLC ...
she flashed it,
as a warm up,
on a very cold morning,
with injuries to both big toes and a hamstring,
wearing completely blown out shoes (i.e. her toes are poking out).

just thought the record should show what really happened.

now before you all jump on me for not getting marcy new shoes, i had absolutely no knowledge of their condition, and i'm giving her new ones for christmas. (but don't tell her).

eric, i need badass lessons. many of them. starting now. because once marcy heals up and has shoes that cover her toes i'm screwed.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Dec 23, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

hahaha....but it was a very slow flash....more like a slash :)

p.s. geir's got nothing to worry about!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 23, 2009

Lesson #1. If she can put em up for you, let her.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 26, 2009

lol ok!
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good mixed route. This only has a couple bolts, and then placing gear, some in horizontals. I didn't lead this, so I probably shouldn't give an opinion as to the rating. For me, horizontal placements can add to the intensity of a lead, and this one will take some horizontals. May bump up the rating after leading it.
By Laurel
From: Phoenix
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think that the opening moves are committing and are a 10-..the remainder lets up to 9+. Maybe I was still too cold and it felt not as grippy
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Another awesome route guys thanks!
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Oct 5, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Geir went Brazillian on The Last Chicken this past w/e. Awesome work!