|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 160'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Matt Kuehl on Dec 6, 2011|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Last Calico||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Dec 6, 2011
Was on it years ago, rope stretcher and crux is thin if i remember correctly.
Lots of loose rock at the top, and getting down is a nightmare unless other anchors have appeared somewhere around the top or perhaps i missed them.
The mid-height anchors are new since i was there and should be fun.
With this now posted, hopefully it will clean up a bit, great route and hope it will get climbed more.
Thanks for posting and photos
By Matt Kuehl
From: Las Vegas
Jan 27, 2012
|This is one of my favorite climbs I've done on Kraft Mtn so far. The climb presented me with pretty much every style of crack climbing, with the exception of chimneys. Really cool moves that keep on coming. Don't be discouraged by the descent it is well worth the extra effort. Also don't skimp on the gear because it'll get used.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 11, 2015
|So what is the story on the 5.8(?) variation that stays left and stops after 20 meters at an anchor?|
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Nov 12, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This route has some fantastic, thought-provoking climbing... BUT... it also has a lot of soft, sandy rock on the upper half of the route. My partner and I agreed that there are no moves harder than 5.9 but the difficultly is sustained and the gear is a bit tricky, mostly due to rock quality. If the rock quality was much better this would be a 3 or 4 star route but as is it's a 2 star - good, not great.
I brought doubles to 3 and a single 4 and 5 and that seemed to work OK, although I wouldn't have minded having another 3.
Here's a trick to make the descent a little more pleasant: Have your follower make the long rappel to the base on a single line from your anchor, taking the rack with him. Then toss down the rope and scramble down (after first scrambling up a couple hundred feet) with nothing on your back. If you move with purpose it only takes about 10 minutes.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Dec 3, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|I would add : don't go to visible anchor, keep crossing toward right cracks, crux is thin at the top and gear is fiddly to place, some very sandy parts, and no anchor at top, save cams .5, .75 or #1 for top anchor. walk off is fine.|