| The Land Beyond |
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| | Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Myself on Smaug working out the moves during an on...
Description This area is composed of one large boulder about 1.8 miles beyond the tower (off the same road). The routes are of the same stone as the tower and thus, feature similar climbing. If your looking to pack a lot of routes into a short period of time, this is a great location. Although shorter than the tower, there is a quality selection of routes here. All the routes are right next to each-other and you don't have to travel far to get on another route. Grades range from 5.10a to 5.12 b/c, with the majority being in the mid 11 to low 12 range. Summer shade in the afternoon on the east side of the formation.
There are three different sides to the formation. The sides and routes are listed from left to right (west to east) as you see them from the road/trail.
(I) West Face (AKA Grid Wall)--9 routes
Hike up the trail and head left when you get to the boulder. This beautiful wall of overhung and pocketed rock is known as the grid wall for a reason. It's not difficult to get off route or create link ups on this one, whether on purpose or accident. Get an idea of where you are going before you start up these routes. Routes are listed from left to right.
Beagle (5.11a)
Smeagol (5.11c)
Gandolf (5.11d/12a)
Servant of the Secret Fire (5.12a)
Something Lethal (5.12b)
Incredible Journey (5.12b/c)
Mr. Baggins (5.12a)
Lucky Number (5.12a)
Hoggle (5.10a)
(II) South Face--3 routes
The wall right in front of you as you approach the boulder.
American Psycho (5.12d)
Unknown (5.hard)
Yo La Tango (5.11c/d)
(III) East Face--7 routes
The right side of the boulder looking from the trail/road.
Alice Does Wonderland (5.12a)
Lord of the Ring (5.11d)
Where the Thrush Knocks (5.11d)
Soft Start (5.10d)
Smaug (5.10c)
Frodo (5.11c)
Black Arrow (5.11a)
Getting There Continue past the tower about 1.8 miles. When you see a windmill on your right, look left, and you will see the mammoth boulder up on the hill. Parking is on the right side of the road. The boulder is about a 50 foot hike up the hill from the road.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Land Beyond:
Smaug 5.10c Sport, 50 feet
Featured Route For The Land Beyond
Hoggle 5.10a NM : Enchanted Tower : The Land Beyond
Crux is low between the 1st and 2nd bolt. Interesting, though large mellow jugs with long moves between. Great for the grade as you rarely find routes that are of this quality yet so steep! Too bad it is so short. Synonymous but shorter than other routes on the Tower. ... [more] Browse More Classics in NM
| Comments on The Land Beyond |
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 30, 2008
| There is a new hard route on the front face here, between American Psycho and Yo La Tango. It starts out not too bad for the first two bolts, then gets incredibly hard between the 2nd and third bolts to a tricky lip encounter and an easy finish. Much harder than American Psycho probably at least mid 5.13. I couldn't touch the moves between the second and third bolt, you need some serious small pocket pulling power for this. |
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 1, 2008
| Is the new line squeezed in? It seems from memory that there wouldn't be room for a third independent line. Anyway, sounds pretty cool...any monos? |
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 2, 2008
| No, it isn't too squeezed, there is about 15 feet between the two previous routes and this one is pretty much in the center. So while a little tight it doesn't share any holds and isn't any worse than the other routes on this wall.
The way I see the sequence going there are some bumps off of mono's but no outright mono moves. |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 26, 2011
| I thought that there were some really nice routes here. In general the lines were well thought out and the routes were bolted very well and with good hardware. Many thanks to the FA's for creating a great new crag. That said, I think it is pretty unfortunate that many of the anchors are of the bolt and washer type. It ain't 1992 anymore and there simply isn't a (good) reason to use such janky hardware. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 10, 2012
| But, J. Albers, the routes were probably put up in the early to mid 90's and have likely not had any love since. I know I climbed several of them in the spring of '97. Sure it would be nice if we could update everything but that takes time... |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 8, 2012
| Fair enough Lee....I understand it takes time, and the Tower is surely not the only popular crag around that is still undergoing updates (the Iris comes to mind). Again, let me reiterate my gratitude to the FA's and subsequent hardware updaters; there are some very fun routes here, so thanks. Cheers. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 8, 2012
| J.A., I think the real issue here is not that the Tower is still undergoing updates, though it is from time to time, but more that this is the "Land Beyond". While I agree that the routes I've done there were quite good, I've been there exactly once in 1997 and have failed to make it back. Most people that go to Datil climb at the tower and the nearby walls and don't venture up to the Land Beyond so updating the equipment will likely remain low on the list of priorities for those people that do those things. |
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