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BETA PHOTO: The Kracken
You can not rap or lower off either pitch of this climb with a single 60 Meter rope.
The Kracken is named for James Crump's internet handle. Crump is responsible for much of the parks early development and many of it's first ascents.
This route was bolted on lead in 2008 in old school traditional style. To my knowledge this is the last line at Erock to be bolted from the ground up. Since then it has become a very popular line. Presumably because it is quite reasonably protected by Erock standards.
Pitch 1: Start on the low angle slab and clip one bolt before the overlap. The second bolt can be found on top of the overlap and can be clipped before pulling the first of two cruxes. Above the overlap continue up easy well featured slab, following the line of bolts. Belay on the large comfortable Boston Ledge under the trees. Double bolted rap bolts are found here. Take long slings or know how to anchor in with the rope. The anchors are otherwise placed a bit too high and far apart to allow for a comfortable belay.
Pitch 2: There are two bolted lines leaving the ledge. The first bolt above the ledge can be used for both. Kracken is the line to the right and Newark goes left. After clipping the second bolt it may be helpful to back track and unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag. The third bolt protects the second crux. After the crux, climb the lower angle black streak that is shared with Dome Driver. Three more bolts are located on the black streak before reaching the double bolted anchors that are also shared with Dome Driver. From here there is a short 4th class scramble to the top if you are walking off or rappelling with a single sixty from the News Wall anchors. Some will prefer to be belayed for the scramble off.
Kracken is the first bolted line to the right of the large rotten v-shaped notch in the overlap that marks Boston. Look for the first bolt below the overlap to the right of the rotten notch and start climbing.
You can not rap off this route with a single 60 Meter rope. For the descent either walk off, take two ropes, or use the News Wall rap bolts to descend in one rappel with a single 60.
P-1: 6 bolts to a double bolted belay with rap hangers.
P-2: 1 bolt shared with Newark and 5 more belonging to Kracken leading to a double bolted belay with rap hangers.
By David Rice
From: San Antonio, TX
Jun 3, 2015
A real nice climb definitely worth doing. On the second pitch I used an extended alpine draw for the first bolt. No issues with rope drag.
By Ted Pinson
From: Chicago, IL
Jul 1, 2015
Why is this listed as trad if it is bolted?
Jul 10, 2015
I listed it as trad because this is a traditional area and it is not uncommon for people who climb sport at Reimer's and such to come to Erock and be surprised by the bolt spacing, the lack of sport clips, and the rap distances. There have been close calls on the so called "sport routes" and at least one helicoptor ride because people ran out of rope while rapping.