Tricky start with a thin crux and an honest-to-goodness "naughty finger-pocket", this route is the best on the wall. If you avoid the crux by moving left or right, it's not nearly as interesting.
Climb the obvious dihedral to right of Captain's Log. Easy walk-off.
Never led it; the pro looks acceptable. All gear anchor or double-bolted anchor; the DBA is better-used on the routes to the right, so build your own.
May 3, 2010
The tree shown in the photo at the base of the route is no longer there, a victim of climbers' feet no doubt.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Jul 12, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variety of face moves and stemming techniques used to get to the ceiling/bulge (crux), then a couple exposed moves and slopey feet to get over. Very exhilerating. One of the better climbs I've done at Peter's Kill.
From: Washingtonville NY
Jun 27, 2013
the pro is good. can sink a nut in at the crux, and easy to bail to easier terrain if you get sketched.